Noted Chef Hemant Mathur and owner Sonny Solomon bring their considerable talents to this contemporary collaboration set on a busy stretch of Astoria. Inside, the vibe is friendly and casual, in an attractive room that extends from a front bar to brick-lined dining room and open back patio. The regional (and sub-regional) Indian cooking is both tasty and high achieving, beginning with mirchri ka salan featuring a complex peanut- coconut and sesame seed-base spiced with fresh-ground tamarind, curry leaf, and fenugreek. More notable is the fact that this may be a mere accompaniment to a very interesting South Indian riff on vegetarian biryani, made wonderfully fragrant with fluffy rice and jackfruit. The slow-cooked bhuna gosht is silky, gamey excellence.
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