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This is Chef Nicholas Stefanelli's impressive multi-story ode to Italy. The first floor has an easy-going café and bar, as well as a market for picking up wine, cheese and house-cured beef and charcuterie. Meanwhile, the heart of this place, a sun-lit trattoria anchored by an open kitchen, is upstairs on the second floor. A lengthy list of salumis and formaggi tempts patrons, and pastas like cavatelli, agnolotti and paccheri are all made in-house. Heartier plates include veal saltimbocca and bombetta pugliese, a succulent pork shoulder wrapped in prosciutto, but don't miss the smaller list of other meat cuts. You'll find everything from hay-smoked sweetbreads finished with lemon zest and fennel pollen to braised beef tripe with tomato. - MICHELIN guide inspectors