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If the name wasn’t already a giveaway, the large comal by the window and row of golden corn husks hanging along the wall should tell you what matters most to this restaurant—corn. Heirloom varieties sourced from Mexico are nixtamalized, ground into masa, pressed into tortillas, and griddled at all hours. They frequently accompany dishes as either a crisp chip for scooping or a soft sponge for dipping. Combinations like the corn tamal with charred tomatillo and goat cheese or seared duck breast with green apple purée signal more contemporary ideas; while traditional mole like the rich manchamanteles is a must.
After dinner, head to the underground cocktail lounge, where mezcal is front and center. Service, all the while, is earnest from start to finish.