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In operation for close to a decade, The Dabney has earned a recent refresh. The room still gives off charming contemporary farmhouse vibes with its exposed brick, light walls and dark wood. The look is completed by a slickly arranged open kitchen complete with a wood-fired hearth. However, the evolution is more than skin deep. Chef/owner Jeremiah Langhorne serves up the flavors of the Mid-Atlantic with a hint of a Southern accent and the tasting menu is a deeper, more committed expression of the team's talents.
Diners are welcomed by an array of stimulating snacks that may offer a bite-sized stack of apple cake and foie gras torchon; fried catfish tucked between a moist sweet potato bun and bouquet of bitter salad greens meant to be dipped in bacon fat. The main event, an ember-roasted aged duck breast arranged with a host of condiments that cover the table, may even be served by the chef himself.