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Hidden away in industrial Tin City, Chef Ricky Odbert has, for many years now, quietly and confidently cooked like few others in the region. Dry-aged fish and meats, seasonal produce, and delicious sauces come together in a breezy space with soaring ceilings, charcoal-tinted walls, metal edges and a stunning wood counter that wraps around the kitchen. It’s a fitting stage for food that eats as beautifully as it looks. Recent highlights include dill meringue crowned with trout roe and aged pork loin paired with brown butter and a stunning burnt onion puree. Desserts, like barley koji ice cream with whipped miso, are particularly exceptional and balance sweet and savory. A highly selective wine list brings small producers under the spotlight.