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In some ways, this all-day hit feels like a city of its own. With soaring ceilings, beautiful brickwork and sunny skylights, the cavernous space is a beehive of activity. In the morning, freshly baked pastries and breads draw long lines. Come evening, the open kitchen is in full swing, working quickly to serve wave after wave of diners. The tightly curated menu explores the cuisine of Southern Europe through exceptional ingredients, many of them local. Trays loaded with warm potato and leek beignets or toast points stacked with eggs and uni land on almost every table. Baguettes with superb French butter inevitably follow. Dungeness crab risotto, braised wagyu beef cheek and duck with baby beets round out an experience that never fails to satisfy.