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Even for scenic Healdsburg, Barndiva is eye-catching. Service is attentive and with nary a hint of pretense. Nothing feels contrived in this dining room, where farm-to-table is the dictum. Chef Erik Anderson's cooking hones in on prime local produce and sustainability. An Early Girl tomato filled with mozzarella espuma on a base of dashi gelee takes familiar flavors and creates something utterly new. Roasted duck accompanied by caramelized fennel, orange confiture and duck liver mousse dusted in cocoa powder is given a gorgeous plating. Don't skip Pastry Chef Neidy Venegas's desserts, like a vanilla genoise layered with citrus mousse and decorated with blood orange gel; or blackberry sorbet matched with a chocolate financier. They are almost too pretty to eat. Well, almost.