Efficiency trumps hospitality at this sushi temple, where warm honey-toned bamboo slats are by far the warmest feature. Reservations are managed with little coddling, arrivals lack any greeting, tardiness is not accepted, and loitering at the counter is not an option. But to sushi-loving diehards, this is just the cost of admission. Tables packed with suits (this is midtown, after all) should be avoided in favor of the sleek counter attended to by a pristinely attired staff as this is where the magic happens. And, your experience here depends entirely on the itamae enlisted in front of you. Their mission is to ensure that each diner receives fish that has just been cut, formed, and dressed moments before it is eaten. After years of buildup, this kitchen is finally living up to its hype-with a wealth of classically assembled and spectacularly fresh sushi on offer. Every item is handled with such care and is truly memorable: a sparkling combo of sea scallop and oyster is sprinkled with soy sauce, sea salt, and lemon; a duo of uni lets the palate compare specimens from Santa Barbara and Hokkaido; and a trio of King, Alaskan white, and wild New Zealand salmon nigiri makes for a fantastic treat.
MICHELIN guide inspectors
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