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The Sri Lankan team at Dosa Garden is giving their South Indian counterparts across the city a run for their money. Inside, towering windows face a bustling street, but melodic tunes and vibrant murals lend balance. This is an impressive place for dosas with over nineteen varieties, each prepared-to-order in their small, walled-in kitchen. Despite its size, the kitchen churns out a knockout feast of heady, complex, fragrant flavors and unique textures as seen in an onion- and chili-studded utthappam (rice-and-lentil flour pancake) served with sambar (a fiery lentil soup) and soothing coconut chutney. Some opt for crispy decadence in the paper masala dosa stuffed with mustard seed-spiced potatoes. The refreshing salt lassis are an essential pairing.