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At the edge of the Queens' border, where the borough starts to meet Long Island, along a wide boulevard known as 25A, sits San & Deul—a Korean restaurant where the cooking is done table-top with real wood, the panchan is delightful, and the service is lovely. If the décor (a clean, bright room with large windows overlooking the street) is a little on the functional end, you can probably look the other way. Food like this is ambience enough: A mashed soybean casserole is dotted with veggies and fresh clams; deep-fried dumplings are stuffed with pork, shiitake mushrooms, fish sauce, and tofu; and tender prime beef short ribs are cooked over a wood burning grill, then served with red rice, kimchi, and red-leaf lettuce for wrapping.