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Donato Enoteca, settled in the heart of Redwood City, oozes with rustic northern ambience from the wood-beamed dining room, to the alfresco patio, to the private wine cellar room. The counter facing the busy open kitchen is perfect for solo diners or those wanting to watch the cooks up close. The seasonally inspired menu might begin with such wonderfully simple pasta courses as spaghetti alle vongole tossed with spicy Calabrian chilies. Expect mains like controfiletto scalogno-tender sirloin steak served with roasted scallions and fresh rosemary-and sides of organic fagiolini flavored with caramelized guanciale. Tiramisu layered with espresso-soaked ladyfingers makes a luscious finale. The wine list features a good selection of Italian varietals.