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Donato Enoteca, settled in the heart of Redwood City and just steps away from City Hall, oozes with rustic northern ambience, from its wood-beamed dining room to the counter facing the busy open kitchen. The latter is perfect for solo diners or those who wish to watch the cooks up close. The seasonally inspired menu might begin with such wonderfully simple pasta courses as spaghetti alle vongole tossed with spicy Calabrian chilies. Expect mains like controfiletto scalogno—tender sirloin steak served with roasted scallions and fresh rosemary—and sides of organic fagiolini flavored with caramelized guanciale. Tiramisu layered with espresso-soaked ladyfingers makes for a luscious finale; and the wine list features a good selection of Italian varietals.