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Set on a quiet stretch of El Camino Real, a vine-covered trellis walkway leads to the stately John Bentley's. A squad of date-night duos and locals from around the way seeking contemporary American cooking have found a fine refuge in this quaint, very classic tavern, whose dark wood wainscoting and oil paintings recall an earlier era of power-lunching. But now along with those wealthy retirees, lunching ladies and even families with well-behaved children come to savor simple, well-executed dishes like flaky broiled Loch Duart salmon set over sautéed spinach drizzled with basil oil. Arched banquettes make for the best seats in the house and are ideal for savoring each bite of the grilled watermelon Napoleon, sandwiched with Dungeness crab and avocado.