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Located in a popular shopping plaza, Wakuriya's dining room may first seem dark and rather nondescript. On further inspection, it becomes serene with thick curtains to keep away the outside world and a line of tables that seem to point to the chefs and open kitchen—offering a bit of dinner theater. Delighted diners do much to make the vibe more celebratory. Service is knowledgeable to the point of enlightening on the finer points and flavors of a new dish. The fixed menu may change price and content frequently, but the cuisine is always elaborate, stunning, and filled with seasonal beauty. After a refreshing cup of sake with a hint of lemon, dip into a lacquer bowl brimming with somen and slices of tender duck in delicate and smoky dashi spiced with shimichi. Move on to a cool appetizer trio of caviar-topped shrimp in egg-yolk sauce and crunchy snow peas; madai snapper and salmon roe dressed in mustard greens; and tofu-pockets of inari stuffed with Alaskan snow crab. Depending on availability, a sashimi course may present excellent fatty tuna, amberjack, and monkfish liver set atop shiso and paper-thin radish with bonito soy sauce. Accompany any meal here with a flight of dry sake.