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Those on Brooklyn's culinary vanguard know about Celestino and its trailblazing owner Massimiliano Nanni, but the secret is now getting out. Not many would pick this seemingly out-of-the-way spot in Bed-Stuy with its barely burgeoning restaurant scene, but one bite and naysayers are forgotten. The whitewashed brick walls sparsely decorated with lobster traps and fishing nets suit the concise, piscine-focused menu. Italian servers shuck oysters at the bar and shuffle dishes that begin with simple and classic plates of prosecco-marinated sardines, tender cuttlefish over creamy polenta, and spaghetti topped with mussels in a white wine broth. Light and delicious crêpes are ingenious when filled with a wonderfully unique and rich seafood ragù.