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Ouest is not sexy; it is sultry. But in this area, baby, you've got to have more than looks to last. The Upper West Side may not swarm with important eateries, but Ouest's elevated and serious cuisine has made it a magnet for celebrities, media moguls, and locals for more than a decade. The slender front bar is adored for sipping; under its grand ceiling lamps are red leather banquettes packed with eager guests. Bustling with capable servers, the large back dining room is a masculine yet elegant, balconied space. From here, the open kitchen presents plates of silky cauliflower custard beside buttery lobster knuckles; sumac-crusted tuna with a white bean purée and red pepper compote; and a distinctly flavorful peanut butter-chocolate bombe.