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De Librije branches out
Myra Prinsen-2008-09-15
Jonnie and Thérèse Boer have become famous mainly thanks to De Librije, the Zwolle restaurant awarded three stars in the Michelin Guide. They have also recently become owners of two other restaurants, a hotel, a cookery workshop, a shop and a catering service.
It was in 2004 that the De Librije restaurant landed its third star, proof of the excellence of its cuisine: “There is no better guarantee of quality. From the moment we won this award, everything suddenly took off,” says Thérèse Boer. The municipality of Zwolle contacted them to take over the “catering” part of the future De Spiegel theatre. They had already been contemplating the idea of offering accommodation to their guests for some time. Now, both projects have come to fruition on the Spinhuisplein, a five-minute walk away from the De Librije restaurant.
A hotel in a former prison
The theatre restaurant and club opened their doors in 2006. In the lounge-style club, they serve mainly tapas, cocktails and champagne. The De Koperen Kees restaurant, on the upper floor, is perfectly adapted to the theatre atmosphere with its red and aubergine colours. Its good value for money has already earned it a place among the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmands.
The brand new theatre is located on the same esplanade as the former women’s prison, built in 1739. In May 2008, Jonnie and Thérèse opened a prestigious hotel with restaurant and cookery workshop in this historic building. The renovation works were the subject of a series of television programmes. Whilst respecting the architecture of the place (heavy interior doors, barred windows…) they managed to tastefully transform this former prison into a luxury five-star hotel. They designed the furniture themselves and the interior has been done out with strong black and white contrasts.
Thérèse often hears the same remark from guests: it’s impossible not to have a lie-in in such comfortable beds. Most of the rooms have an “open space” design, the bathroom being integrated into the sleeping area. This suits the clientele well: “Most of our clients are couples who come to be pampered for a few days. They want to enjoy our cuisine, make the most of the hotel and explore the surrounding area.”
The bars on the windows are more decorative than annoying. The heavy doors of the old cells are never closed: they open onto a small lobby and a second door giving access to the bedroom, which can, of course, be closed.
The bars on the windows are more decorative than annoying. The heavy doors of the old cells are never closed: they open onto a small lobby and a second door giving access to the bedroom, which can, of course, be closed.
A cooking venue for professionals and amateurs
The new restaurant has been named De Librije’s Zusje (“Librije’s little sister”). It is Sidney Schutte, Jonnie’s right hand man, who runs the kitchen on a daily basis. As for the atmosphere, the restaurant is not unlike its elder sibling.
A cookery workshop has been set up next to the kitchen. Here too, the style is modern: a lot of sparkling stainless steel alternating with black stained wood. Professional cooks and amateurs can take courses here. During Taste Week, a special children’s workshop was designed to teach them how to make chips, mayonnaise and apple compote themselves.
The induction plates installed in the cookery workshop might come as a surprise. For Jonnie Boer, the time when one stayed “behind the stove” is gone. “I saved up for years to be able to buy a real French range cooker. We turned it on at 9 o’clock in the morning and the flames were often extinguished around midnight. A lot of heat was lost in the course of the day and the chefs often had difficulty breathing because of the temperature. When it came to designing the big kitchen, we thought of induction. At the time, almost no professional chef was using induction and everyone warned us about it. But everything went smoothly. Now the whole business operates with induction.”
The ceiling of the cookery workshop also attracts attention. Since they opened their hotel, Jonnie and Thérèse have been inviting colleagues, star-rated chefs who are passing through, to come and sign – with or without a personal message – one of the ceiling tiles. Jonnie then adds the number of stars of his guests. For instance, some tiles have been signed by Jan de Wit (Le Restaurant in Amsterdam), Jean George Klein (L’Ansbourg in Alsace) and Moshik Roth (Het Brouwerskolkje in Overveen).
Eating in the cellar at De Librije
In Zwolle, success began with De Librije. This is where Jonnie started out, in 1986, as a trainee chef. After a few years of apprenticeship and practical experience alongside a star-rated chef in Amsterdam, he decided to return to Giethoorn. Jonnie had read in an article that the owner of De Librije was an odd sort of character who liked to cook with mushrooms that he picked himself. He liked that.
The first star in 1993 came as a big surprise: “I thought stars were only for fashionable glitzy restaurants. Our business was very modest and set in the cellar of an old building. And suddenly, a Michelin Guide inspector came in. Then the chief inspector came – I recognised him from a photo. Suddenly things got very serious.”
It was with this first star that the De Librije story really began. The service went from 2 to 20 covers a day. Meanwhile, Jonnie had met Thérèse, who was on a hotel and catering course. She specialised in wine and became a respected hostess and oenologist. In the early 1990s, they were able to take over De Librije and later had the opportunity to purchase the whole property, which was once part of a vast monastery.
The restaurant is now on the first floor, but it is still possible to eat in the cellar: 16 covers can be served in the kitchen. Guests who wish to be seated near the chef must say so when they make their reservation. Most, however, choose a table in the restaurant, where the atmosphere is much quieter than downstairs.
De Librije is located on a little esplanade inside the old ramparts of Zwolle. Opposite, Jonnie and Thérèse own a shop that sells homemade products under the name “Euk & Eulie” (local dialect of Giethoorn meaning Oil and Vinegar), among them Zolte (salt and herb), Zour (tinned vegetables) and Zeute (jam). They also sell a selection of wines chosen by Thérèse.
Making sure the businesses remain at high level
In the building that houses the De Koperen Kees restaurant, Jonnie and Thérèse have installed a large kitchen: this is where the chefs bake bread, make chocolates and prepare sauces. Their own catering service, Food on Tour, also operates from this kitchen.
Since the restaurants operate on different levels, the employees can now move up the career ladder in-house. As for the dishes, the choice is also greater now. The pikeperch with black treacle, one of Jonnie’s classics, is no longer for a three-star restaurant: “We have now put it on the menu at De Librije’s Zusje. The guests who came to De Librije before like still being able to eat dishes from that time. They can also order other classics, such as the salt pork terrine and foie gras, the red mullet with flaked sausage or sole with smoked butter.”
Projects abroad have also been realised. A team from Zwolle, led by Jonnie and Thérèse, flew out to Hong Kong to cook for a Thai princess. In 2007, Jonnie Boer was the first foreign chef to take charge of the gala dinner of the Toques et Clochers association. Until then, this honour had been reserved solely for renowned French chefs, such as Paul Bocuse and Alain Ducasse.
In the meantime, Jonnie and Thérèse have both received a royal decoration. Additionally, Thérèse was awarded the Uncle Ben’s Ring 2007 for the diversity of her work in gastronomic activities and Jonnie won the Deutschen Akademie für Kulinaristik’s Eckhart Witzigmann prize for managing to completely change cuisine without betraying the taste and authentic nature of the ingredients.
Jonnie and Thérése are today marking time: “We have had several busy years. It is exciting to create other companies, but we now have to make sure that they keep ticking over nicely and remain at the highest level. It’s a real challenge. For the rest, we’ll see what the future has in store for us.”
Thérèse will perhaps make a few more television programmes about wine. Other cookery and wine books will doubtless follow. For the time being, they are not responding to the numerous propositions to open a restaurant abroad, although they haven’t ruled out opening another De Librije in Asia one day.
De Librije restaurant
Broerenkerkplein 13-15
8011 TW Zwolle
Tel: 038-4212083
Librije’s Hotel, Librije’s Zusje, Librije’s Atelier
Spinhuisplein 1
8011 ZZ Zwolle
Tel: 038-8530000
It was in 2004 that the De Librije restaurant landed its third star, proof of the excellence of its cuisine: “There is no better guarantee of quality. From the moment we won this award, everything suddenly took off,” says Thérèse Boer.
The municipality of Zwolle contacted them to take over the “catering” part of the future De Spiegel theatre. They had already been contemplating the idea of offering accommodation to their guests for some time. Now, both projects have come to fruition on the Spinhuisplein, a five-minute walk away from the De Librije restaurant.
A hotel in a former prison
The theatre restaurant and club opened their doors in 2006. In the lounge-style club, they serve mainly tapas, cocktails and champagne. The De Koperen Kees restaurant, on the upper floor, is perfectly adapted to the theatre atmosphere with its red and aubergine colours. Its good value for money has already earned it a place among the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmands.
The brand new theatre is located on the same esplanade as the former women’s prison, built in 1739. In May 2008, Jonnie and Thérèse opened a prestigious hotel with restaurant and cookery workshop in this historic building. The renovation works were the subject of a series of television programmes. Whilst respecting the architecture of the place (heavy interior doors, barred windows…) they managed to tastefully transform this former prison into a luxury five-star hotel. They designed the furniture themselves and the interior has been done out with strong black and white contrasts.
Thérèse often hears the same remark from guests: it’s impossible not to have a lie-in in such comfortable beds. Most of the rooms have an “open space” design, the bathroom being integrated into the sleeping area. This suits the clientele well: “Most of our clients are couples who come to be pampered for a few days. They want to enjoy our cuisine, make the most of the hotel and explore the surrounding area.”
The bars on the windows are more decorative than annoying. The heavy doors of the old cells are never closed: they open onto a small lobby and a second door giving access to the bedroom, which can, of course, be closed.
The bars on the windows are more decorative than annoying. The heavy doors of the old cells are never closed: they open onto a small lobby and a second door giving access to the bedroom, which can, of course, be closed.
A cooking venue for professionals and amateurs
The new restaurant has been named De Librije’s Zusje (“Librije’s little sister”). It is Sidney Schutte, Jonnie’s right hand man, who runs the kitchen on a daily basis. As for the atmosphere, the restaurant is not unlike its elder sibling.
A cookery workshop has been set up next to the kitchen. Here too, the style is modern: a lot of sparkling stainless steel alternating with black stained wood. Professional cooks and amateurs can take courses here. During Taste Week, a special children’s workshop was designed to teach them how to make chips, mayonnaise and apple compote themselves.
The induction plates installed in the cookery workshop might come as a surprise. For Jonnie Boer, the time when one stayed “behind the stove” is gone. “I saved up for years to be able to buy a real French range cooker. We turned it on at 9 o’clock in the morning and the flames were often extinguished around midnight. A lot of heat was lost in the course of the day and the chefs often had difficulty breathing because of the temperature. When it came to designing the big kitchen, we thought of induction. At the time, almost no professional chef was using induction and everyone warned us about it. But everything went smoothly. Now the whole business operates with induction.”
The ceiling of the cookery workshop also attracts attention. Since they opened their hotel, Jonnie and Thérèse have been inviting colleagues, star-rated chefs who are passing through, to come and sign – with or without a personal message – one of the ceiling tiles. Jonnie then adds the number of stars of his guests. For instance, some tiles have been signed by Jan de Wit (Le Restaurant in Amsterdam), Jean George Klein (L’Ansbourg in Alsace) and Moshik Roth (Het Brouwerskolkje in Overveen).
Eating in the cellar at De Librije
In Zwolle, success began with De Librije. This is where Jonnie started out, in 1986, as a trainee chef. After a few years of apprenticeship and practical experience alongside a star-rated chef in Amsterdam, he decided to return to Giethoorn. Jonnie had read in an article that the owner of De Librije was an odd sort of character who liked to cook with mushrooms that he picked himself. He liked that.
The first star in 1993 came as a big surprise: “I thought stars were only for fashionable glitzy restaurants. Our business was very modest and set in the cellar of an old building. And suddenly, a Michelin Guide inspector came in. Then the chief inspector came – I recognised him from a photo. Suddenly things got very serious.”
It was with this first star that the De Librije story really began. The service went from 2 to 20 covers a day. Meanwhile, Jonnie had met Thérèse, who was on a hotel and catering course. She specialised in wine and became a respected hostess and oenologist. In the early 1990s, they were able to take over De Librije and later had the opportunity to purchase the whole property, which was once part of a vast monastery.
The restaurant is now on the first floor, but it is still possible to eat in the cellar: 16 covers can be served in the kitchen. Guests who wish to be seated near the chef must say so when they make their reservation. Most, however, choose a table in the restaurant, where the atmosphere is much quieter than downstairs.
De Librije is located on a little esplanade inside the old ramparts of Zwolle. Opposite, Jonnie and Thérèse own a shop that sells homemade products under the name “Euk & Eulie” (local dialect of Giethoorn meaning Oil and Vinegar), among them Zolte (salt and herb), Zour (tinned vegetables) and Zeute (jam). They also sell a selection of wines chosen by Thérèse.
Making sure the businesses remain at high level
In the building that houses the De Koperen Kees restaurant, Jonnie and Thérèse have installed a large kitchen: this is where the chefs bake bread, make chocolates and prepare sauces. Their own catering service, Food on Tour, also operates from this kitchen.
Since the restaurants operate on different levels, the employees can now move up the career ladder in-house. As for the dishes, the choice is also greater now. The pikeperch with black treacle, one of Jonnie’s classics, is no longer for a three-star restaurant: “We have now put it on the menu at De Librije’s Zusje. The guests who came to De Librije before like still being able to eat dishes from that time. They can also order other classics, such as the salt pork terrine and foie gras, the red mullet with flaked sausage or sole with smoked butter.”
Projects abroad have also been realised. A team from Zwolle, led by Jonnie and Thérèse, flew out to Hong Kong to cook for a Thai princess. In 2007, Jonnie Boer was the first foreign chef to take charge of the gala dinner of the Toques et Clochers association. Until then, this honour had been reserved solely for renowned French chefs, such as Paul Bocuse and Alain Ducasse.
In the meantime, Jonnie and Thérèse have both received a royal decoration. Additionally, Thérèse was awarded the Uncle Ben’s Ring 2007 for the diversity of her work in gastronomic activities and Jonnie won the Deutschen Akademie für Kulinaristik’s Eckhart Witzigmann prize for managing to completely change cuisine without betraying the taste and authentic nature of the ingredients.
Jonnie and Thérése are today marking time: “We have had several busy years. It is exciting to create other companies, but we now have to make sure that they keep ticking over nicely and remain at the highest level. It’s a real challenge. For the rest, we’ll see what the future has in store for us.”
Thérèse will perhaps make a few more television programmes about wine. Other cookery and wine books will doubtless follow. For the time being, they are not responding to the numerous propositions to open a restaurant abroad, although they haven’t ruled out opening another De Librije in Asia one day.
De Librije restaurant
Broerenkerkplein 13-15
8011 TW Zwolle
Tel: 038-4212083
Librije’s Hotel, Librije’s Zusje, Librije’s Atelier
Spinhuisplein 1
8011 ZZ Zwolle
Tel: 038-8530000
De Koperen Kees, Food on Tour
Spinhuisplein 14
8011 ZZ Zwolle
Tel: 038-4277388
De Librijewinkel
Meerminneplein 7
8011 SW Zwolle
Tel: 038-4212083
De Koperen Kees, Food on Tour
Spinhuisplein 14
8011 ZZ Zwolle
Tel: 038-4277388
De Librijewinkel
Meerminneplein 7
8011 SW Zwolle
Tel: 038-4212083
