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Versailles: food worthy of a king
Georges Rouzeau-2009-05-04
The Sun King's town is like a pantry worthy of the pre-revolution regime. Versailles boasts many excellent artisans and above all a covered and open market that are the finest of the western suburbs of Paris.
Louis XIV's love of good food (not to say his gluttony) has been long known. He even went as far as to create an extraordinary fruit and vegetable garden, which still exists today (Potager du Roi) and is well worth a visit.
Catering for wholesome appetites today, an open market is held three times a week along with a covered market that is literally invaded at weekends. Above all, the last market gardeners of the Paris region set up their stalls at the open market: they can be recognised by their distinctive awning signalling their precious pedigree. The produce on the other stalls comes from the Rungis wholesale market and the best lies side by side with the less good. In the covered market, apart from cheesemongers, wet fish stalls, poultry stalls and butchers, you'll find an excellent selection of Italian, Portuguese and Lebanese produce.
Versailles is especially attractive on market days. Sit back for an aperitif on one of the many terraces of the bars around the market (at the Franco-belgeor at the Rendez-vous des touristes), before having a picnic with food bought from the market. Alternatively, enjoy a meal at one of the many restaurants in the Notre-Dame district, such as the Valmont, where we recommend eating on the terrace.
Addresses
Le Valmont
20, rue au Pain
78000 Versailles
Tel.: 01 39 50 51 00
L’Angélique
27, avenue de Saint-Cloud
78000 Versailles
Tel.: 01 30 84 98 85
Gordon Ramsay au Trianon Palace
1, bd de la Reine
78000 Versailles
Tel.: 01 30 84 55 55
Aux Caves des Deux Portes
15, rue des Deux Portes
78000 Versailles
Tel.: 01 39 50 41 47.
Tues.-Sat. 9 30 am – 7 30 pm nonstop.
Aux Caves du château
9, place Hoche
78000 Versailles
Tel.: 01 39 50 02 49
Juliette
1, rue de Ducis
78000 Versailles
Tel.: 01 39 50 95 15
Restaurant Harmonium
64, rue d’Anjou
78000 Versailles
Tel.: 01 39 25 00 88
La boutique du Potager du Roi
10, rue Maréchal Joffre
78000 Versailles.
Tues., Thurs. and Sat. From 10 am, but you must arrive by 9 30 am.
Fromagerie royale
6, rue Royale
78000 Versailles
Tel.: 01 39 50 16 66
Daubos
35, rue Royale
78000 Versailles
Tel.: 01 39 50 54 97
Where to stay
Trianon Palace Versailles collection Waldorf Astoria
1, bd de la Reine
78000 Versailles
Tel.: 01 30 84 55 55
20 million dollars has restored the faded Trianon Palace Hotel to its former glory. Its name is due to its proximity to the Grand Trianon built in the C17th by Jules Hardouin-Mansart as a love nest for Louis XIV and Madame de Maintenon. Watch our video “Trianon Palace’s renewal.”
Hôtel de Pièche (bed and breakfast)
Madame Frémy
11, rue de la Paroisse
78000 Versailles
Tel.: 01 39 50 22 09 / 06 67 09 48 29
Although it's not chateau life, it definitely feels like it. Madame Fremy rents out a large furnished apartment in her 18th century town mansion in the very heart of the Notre-Dame district, equal distance from the market and the chateau. This mansion (hôtel de Pièche) owes its name to Joseph Pièche, musician in residenceof La Chambre du Roy ofLouis XV. Two intertwined Ps (for Pièche) decorate the magnificent wrought iron banister of the original staircase classified of historic interest. Located on the ground floor and overlooking both the courtyard and garden, this unique rental also enjoys a terrace overlooking a hectare of garden in the middle of Versailles. Engravings by Quentin de la Tour, Nattier and François Boucher decorate the walls. The latter, favourite painter of Marquise de Pompadour, is said to have stayed here.
Rates: Bed & Breakfeast (breakfast supplied but not served) 80 € per day (for one person), 115 € (two persons) and 130 € (three persons).
Hôtel du Cheval Rouge
18, rue André Chénier
78000 Versailles
Tel.: 01 39 50 03 03
cheval rouge@club-internet.fr
The porch of this Louis XIV coaching inn directly overlooks the Notre-Dame market. Considered a well kept secret by its regulars (travelling salesmen, tourists, former Versaillais on a visit), this hotel has been run by the same family for three generations. Its rooms are plain and simple and surround a large courtyard, some even having a balcony with overhanging wisteria. Single with shower and toilet, from 67 €. Private car park
Hôtel La Résidence du Berry
14, rue d’Anjou
78000 Versailles
Tel.: 01 39 49 07 07
This 18th century house is a charming address in the Saint Louis district. Decorated exquisitely in the English style, the hotel has 38 rooms, one suite and one flat. On the groundfloor, the breakfast room overlooks a small courtyard with trees and there's a really cosy bar. Take advantage of weekend rates (2 nights for 138 € per person). Single from 125 €.
