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Spain’s traditional and irresistible Christmas treats

Emmanuel Tresmontant-2008-12-11

Christmas would not be Christmas in Spain without traditional Christmas treats such as turrón (Spanish nougat), marzipan and polvorones (almond cookies). These sweet delicacies are as much a feature of Christmas in Spanish households as Christmas trees, nativity scenes and Christmas decorations.

 
While turrón is available throughout the year, in Spain it is widely regarded as a treat that is eaten during the Christmas season. Around 80% of the total turrón produced is consumed over Christmas, a trend that the Spanish confectionery industry has tried to reverse but with limited success. Turrón de Alicante (hard nougat) and Turrón de Jijona (soft nougat) remain the most popular varieties, despite the introduction of new variations over recent years.
 
The Christmas favourites are Marzipan, though is a treat that is really enjoyed throughout the year and is less affected by seasonal demand, and polvorones, huge quantities of which are eaten in Spanish homes during the Christmas season.

Turrón
Turrón is the most internationally popular of Spain’s confectionery delicacies. The term refers to the traditional confectionery of Jijona, north of Alicante, known affectionately as "the turrón capital" of the world. Its basic ingredients, almonds, honey and sugar, are staple elements of the Mediterranean diet. Although some evidence suggests that nougat is of Middle-Eastern origin, records date turrón production in the city of Sexona, now known as Jijona, as far back as the sixteenth century.
 
There are some wonderful stories surrounding the origins of turrón. One, for example, describes a king from Jijona who planted thousands of almond trees in his castle grounds in a desperate bid to please his new bride, a Scandinavian princess homesick for the wintry landscapes of the home that she had left behind. Upon blossoming, the almond trees covered the landscape with a “snowfall” of beautiful white petals, bringing a smile back to his new wife’s face. Meanwhile, the inhabitants of Jijona were quick to recognise the rewards to be gained from the trees and began gathering the almonds and using them to produce the nougat we now know as turrón.

Jijona and Alicante remain the best known types of nougat, with both varieties using the same ingredients but slightly differing process methods. Alicante turrón(hard nougat) is created through the boiling of a honey, sugar and egg white mass, to which almonds, peeled and toasted, are added and mixed. The turrón is then air dried before being cut and shaped into rectangular boxes and bars for packaging.

Jijona turrón(soft nougat) follows the same procedure but goes through a grinding mill for additional refining before being transferred to vats for reheating. At this point the Turronero (the craftsmen who produce the turrón) play a key role by mixing the softened nougat with traditional paddles. It is the Turronero who determine the optimum point of the nougat production process and ensure that no two Jijona turróns are everalike.

Although modern machinery is now used to facilitate its production, the
Turrón industry continues to use the same traditional processes in order to produce nougat of the highest quality. To ensure high quality nougat requires meticulous processes, for example ensuring that the almonds are roasted equally on all sides, that the honey and sugar mixture is caramelised to the appropriate level, that there is an appropriate balance between the ingredients used and that a correct equilibrium between the two separate cooking processes is achieved.
 
 
Marzipan
Marzipan, again of middle-eastern origin, is comprised of ground almonds, sugar and egg whites. The best known marzipan delicacies include cakes such pasteles de Gloria, pasteles de Yema (egg yolk filling), Pan de Cádiz (sweet cake wrapped in marzipan), Huesitos de Santo and figuritas.
As with Turrón, perfecting the marzipan making process comes with both experience and knowledge, particularly in terms of determining the end product. For example, factors such as the quality and quantity of almonds used will determine the level of moisture and consistency to be found in the final product.

The Polvoron
The mantecados and polvorones are varieties of cake that originated in Estepa (Sevilla). In many homes in the town, pork fat left over from the slaughter of pigs was used, along with wheat flour, almonds, cinnamon and sugar, to prepare homemade sweets known as mantecados. Polvorones is often sold in paper wraps and, due to its powdery consistency, those in the know recommend that it’s best squeezed in the hand before eating so as to compress the dough and avoid any mishaps!

Make your own Turrón
Although Turrón is not particularly easy to make at home, the ingredients are easy to get hold of so here's a recipe for anyone who wants to surprise family and friends with homemade Turrón this Christmas…
 
Ingredients:
• 1 kilo of rosemary honey
• 500g of sugar
• 2 egg whites
• 1,500g of almonds
• 1 lemon

1. Heat the honey in a saucepan until it begins to boil. Add sugar and mix with a wooden spoon.
2. Whisk the egg whites to form fluffy peaks and add the honey and sugar mixture. Mix for 8-12 minutes and then set to simmer until the mixture begins to caramelise. You’ll know this is happening by the browning of the mixture.
3. Add the almonds to the mix with the grated zest of the lemon. Mix well and allow to cool for a few minutes.
4. Pour the mixture into wood or metal moulds lined with kitchen paper.
5. After 2½ hours the
Turrón is ready. Once it has cooled completely, remove and store in an airtight container.
 

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