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André Le Letty or the return of no-nonsense cuisine
E. Tresmontant-2008-08-18
Halfway between the Eiffel Tower and the Invalides, Rue Malar is today one of the most interesting Parisian addresses for foodies.
On the same side of the street, Stéphane Jego's L’Ami Jean and Thierry Vérola's L’Affriolé have indeed been serving for many years, at most affordable prices, delicious market cuisine agreeably accompanied with genuine vinegrowers' wines. On the corner with Rue de l’Université, Michel Chaudun's boutique is fragrant with freshly roasted cocoa and presents a fascinating array of exceptionally pure chocolates. Further on, towards the Invalides, Petrossian and its caviars, Le Divellec and its sea produce, are two institutions of the chic Paris 'that does not know of difficult times'... Jean-Luc Poujauran's former bakery, taken over by patissier Stéphane Secco, on Rue Jean Nicot, is still for its part worth a detour.
The arrival of André Le Letty in the place of a lacklustre pizzeria on Rue Malar has therefore added to the appeal of this outwardly sadish district where ministers, parliamentarians, journalists and businessmen have always liked to tuck into good food!
Le Letty, for those who haven't heard of him, is the archetypal hard-working and inspired French chef, a past master in his art yet open-minded to the rest of the world. Former right-hand man at La Tour d’Argent, he has always opted for undisguised and clear-cut flavour, like his fried scallops from Erquy accompanied with potatoes sauteed in duck fat and flavoured with rosemary juice, the recipe of which is given. According to Le Letty, if there are more than three aromatic bases in a dish, the chef is not sure of his technique. Like Miles Davis, he feels that few notes are necessary to obtain perfect harmony: you just have to choose the best!
Seen from the outside, André Le Letty's new restaurant L’Agassin doesn't look anything special with a soulless street frontage recalling 1980s hotels. But don't trust appearances and take the trouble to enter: the best part is on the plates!
Fricassee of snails with galanga, pressed oxtail with almonds, and fresh mackerels with ginger, form most tasty starters. As for the dishes, I recommend you try his beef cheek simmered in citronella. On request, André Le Letty also prepares hare à la royale and a delicious blood duck (the ducks are the same as those served at La Tour d’Argent). For dessert, enjoy his rice pudding with orange compote...
Practical information
L’Agassin
8, rue Malar 75007 Paris
Tel: 01 47 05 18 18
A la carte menu for 34 €, set menus at 26 and 29 €.
Closed Sundays and Mondays
