Restaurant Antoine

Emmanuel Tresmontant-2011-03-14

Antoine Vigneron is an important figure in the Parisian gastronomy scene. He’s one of those strong characters unknown to the public at large but who, nevertheless, has a very potent ‘underground’ influence. Having directed the Hotel Bristol for 15 years, Antoine Vigneron set his heart on creating “Paris’ greatest fish restaurant” in 2008.

 

The first strength of this place is its location on the banks of the river Seine, situated between the pont de l'Alma and le Palais de Tokyo. On sunny days there’s a glorious view of the Eiffel Tower and the Musée du quai Branly.

 

In the kitchen, Vigneron has treated himself to the services of a young, 34 year-old chef who has already had a very full career  - Mickaël Féval.  His initial training was "Samurai style" at the Plaza Athénée under Eric Briffard (“a great man and a very rigorous one, from the Robuchon school style.”)  Féval then left to learn under chefs as varied as Bernard Loiseau from Saulieu (“a man of great humanity and, when it comes to achieving excellence, he is a true leader of men!”)  and Antoine Westermann in Strasbourg (“an intimate establishment that has the soul of a family.”)

 

The aim at Antoine is to obtain the best possible sea produce, from Britanny, the Basque country, the Mediterranean or even Norway. You’ll find, for example, the same sublime whiting as the one made famous by Eric Frechon at le Bristol, caught at St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie. “In point of fact, it is the fishermen who dictate the rhythm of the menu” explains Féval. “We have a relationship based on trust and that’s really something unusual!” Sometimes he goes on fishing trips with them off the coast of la Vendée for 10 hours at a time. “Cooking is also about going to find the produce yourself, seeing where it comes from and immersing yourself in the elements of its origin.”

 

From the very first glance, all the fish impress by their beauty and freshness, their stiff appearance, bright red gills, fixed scales, bright translucent eyes and no odours whatsoever. It’s of no surprise that the same sensations of freshness and the sea are found on the plate. The line-caught, whole Sea Bass for two people, grilled on fennel wood and served with steamed vegetables is one of the menu’s flagship dishes. As is the Bouillabaisse perfumed with Quercy saffron and accompanied with rouille and garlic croutons – one of the rare Bouillabaisses worthy of its name in Paris!

 

Féval is also a fine technician and always looking for different flavours and aromas. A citrus fruit producer from the Pyrenees, Monsieur Bachès, supplies him with bergamot lemons with a sumptuous zest that give a lift and fragrance to the île d’Oléron Sea Bass cooked in a special casserole dish.

 

For the dessert, one choice is not enough. They are equally delicious, with creations from a remarkable pâtissier - François Régien.  His hot limequat soufflé and his rum baba and roast pineapple with sweet spices are all worth making a detour for.

 

 

10, avenue de New York 75 116 Paris

Tel: 01 40 70 19 28

Lunch menu 48 €