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Vienna: the trendy, organic Euro 2008

2008-06-02

By Georges Rouzeau
Vienna is not all waltzes and Wiener Schnitzels. Over the last few years, the Austrian capital has become a trendy destination. Organic restaurants, designer hotels or bathing in a swimming pool on a barge – your footballing stay will be full of surprises.



© WienTourismus/Karl Thomas

Bathing and beach(es)

Austria has no coastline. But that’s not a problem! All summer long, Vienna guarantees a “bathing, beach and palm tree” atmosphere worthy of the Costa Brava. Fine sand and sports such as beach volleyball and beach soccer, as well as fire shows and dances, are on the agenda of the “Sand in the City” event. A spa and wellness area, whirlpool baths, a swimming pool and a massage area await you. This oasis filled with deckchairs also offers 14 beach bars.
 
In summer, the banks of the Danube Canal (closer to the city centre than the Danube itself) also turn into urban shores with their bars, cafes and restaurants, deckchairs and even a place to swim, thanks to the Badeschiff (bathing boat). This old Danube barge contains a swimming pool (the Austrians’ favourite sport) and an upper deck for sunbathing.
 
A stone’s throw from here, near the Urania (an observatory dating from 1910), the Strandbar Herrmann is one of the top Viennese trendy spots: until the end of September, this outdoor bar, which is slightly futuristic despite its rustic wooden decor, successfully goes for Ibiza-style ambience and benefits from an unobstructed view of old Vienna.
 
Facing the Strandbar Herrmann, on the opposite bank of the Danube Canal, an attractive place for young and old alike has just opened its doors to the public: the new “Central Garden”. This section of the canal hosts cultural and sporting events, and will also have a 200m2 football pitch, a sunny terrace equipped with deckchairs and a restaurant.

The Albertina: Paul Klee retrospective

If you want to visit a museum, head for the Albertina. With its 45,000 drawings and watercolours and 1.5 million graphic works, it is the largest collection of graphic art in the world.
 
Until August, the Albertina is exhibiting the collection of Carl Djerassi, who has donated 65 works by Swiss-German artist Paul Klee. It is, therefore, a veritable retrospective of this genius of classic modernity.

Trendy cafes and restaurants

Alongside the rather affected classic restaurants, Vienna now has loads of cafes and restaurants that benefit from ultra modern and functional settings and serve quality cuisine.
 
A case in point is the Milocafe-restaurant in the Architekturzentrum Wien, whose construction was entrusted to two French architects. A tribute to the universal genius of architecture, the place combines a variety of materials and techniques.
 
As good as it is attractive, Österreicher im Mak is the restaurant of the Austrian Museum of Applied Arts. Big name chef Helmut Österreicher officiates here in this revamped Viennese inn, and breathes new life into the classics of Austrian cuisine.


© Altstadt

Hotels: designer hotels and historic luxury hotels

Vienna boasts some excellent hotels. As for designer and boutique hotels, there is no shortage of good places. Das Triest was, for example, Terence Conran’s first foray into hotel creation.
 
The Altstadt, which opened in 2006, has 49 rooms and plays the hand of neo-Baroque refinement with its dark striped wallpaper and chandeliers from Prague.
 
The 40 rooms of the Do & Co hotel occupy the upper floors of an architecturally controversial building, Haas House, a post-modern shopping arcade designed by Hans Hollein.
 
Also take a look at the Hollmann Beletage hotel and Rathaus Wien & Design, where the minibar in each room offers a selection of Austrian wines.
 
There are, of course, some superb historic luxury hotels. Built in 1845 and restored in 2003, the five-star Coburg is a prime example of its kind, with its rooftop swimming pool and spa and its luxurious suites that combine technology and refinement.
 
Opposite the Staatsoper, the Bristol is over one hundred years old and has always been in league with the world of music, from Caruso to Joan Baez.
 
A particularly typical example of the magnificent architecture of Ringstraße, the Imperial is aptly named: its luxurious rooms, furnished with antiques, give a taste of imperial Vienna.
 
The Sacher Wien is another legendary address, which witnessed the birth of the famous Sachertorte, a chocolate cake filled with apricot jam invented by Franz Sacher in 1832 for the prince of Metternich.

Organic Vienna

Austria is, naturally, one of the most organic countries in Europe. In Vienna alone, a city that backs onto the countryside, 16% of the agricultural area is devoted to organic farming.
 
So nobody is surprised to find here an increasing number of places with the “organic” label. There is now a whole section of Viennese gastronomy that swears only by health and sustainable development. Boutiques – wine merchants, cafes, restaurants – are flourishing, particularly in the young, trendy districts: around the Karmeliterviertel, near the Naschmarkt and at Spittelberg and all around Vienna’s nineteen markets.


© Saint Charles Apothek

One of the pioneers of vegetarian food, Christian Wrenkh, offers vegetarian cookery lessons in his cafe, which he describes as a culinary salon (“gast.raum”). The dish of the day costs €7.50.
 
Among the other organic vegetarian restaurants, Saint Charles Alimentary (culinary side of the Saint-Charles pharmacy) is one of the best. The chef Philipp Furtenbach works only with fresh, wild, organic produce from the Viennese forests and countryside. Certain culinary preparations made using medicinal herbs are also shared with the hundred-year-old pharmacy located on the other side of the street.
 
Right in the heart of Naschmarkt, Tewa offers organic produce from all over the world, to sample either on the premises or to take away.
 
At the Mondscheinstüberl, you can enjoy Viennese vegan cuisine in a cafe atmosphere, the dishes being prepared using only organic ingredients.
 
As for the Babette bookshop, it also has a food section where the chef prepares delicious little menus before your very eyes. All of these addresses are also characterised by very good value for money.

Dine in an Austrian’s home: The Dining Room

Angelika Apfelthaler first made a name for herself in the world of Austrian culinary blogs. Her dearest wish was to open her very own restaurant. She has now done just that, with the aptly named The Dining Room: 12 guests are invited to take a seat in Angelika Apfelthaler’s dining room under the greedy eye of her golden retriever, Dino.
 
Here, the conviviality is not superficial. Angelika Apfelthaler is boundlessly passionate about Italian cuisine but never forgets typical Austrian ingredients, such as pumpkin.


© Euro 2008 SA

UEFA Euro 2008

Vienna’s parks are already set for Euro 2008, as witnessed by the 240 giant statues of footballers and the football trees put in place by the office in charge of green spaces. Vienna has, in fact, decided to make its involvement in this Euro 2008 environmentally friendly, and its stadium has thus received an ecological seal of approval attesting to efforts made in carbon dioxide emission reduction.
 
Ernst Happel Stadion
The Ernst Happel Stadion is located at the heart of the Austrian capital, in Prater Park, on the banks of the Danube.
 
Built in 1931 on the old private hunting grounds of the imperial family, this stadium, originally called Prater Stadion, was used during the Second World War as a barracks and a detention camp for Austrian Jews.
 
Extended after the war to reach a capacity of 90,000 spectators in 1959, it underwent a first facelift in 1986: the standing places were done away with, bringing its capacity to 50,000 seats and making it the biggest stadium in Austria.
 
At the end of 1992, the Prater Stadion was renamed Ernst Happel as a tribute to the legendary Rapid Vienna footballer, who went on to coach various European football clubs and also Austria’s national team.
 
A further renovation was undertaken in 2005, in anticipation of the European Championship. It was then decided to cover the stadium with an elliptical roof made of steel, which gives it a futuristic look. A glass security post was integrated into the stand, offering an unobstructed view of the stadium, and a video surveillance system can scan the entire enclosure. The pitch is equipped with a heating system, there are two giant video screens as well as a 1,600 m2 press centre and air-conditioned VIP boxes that can accommodate 900 people. Capacity has increased to 53,000 seats. The city of Vienna and the federal Austrian government have invested a total sum of over thirty million euros in this last renovation.
 
The Ernst-Happel Stadion, which has already hosted four European Champion Clubs’ Cup finals over the years, will host seven matches in all: three group games, two quarter-finals, one semi-final and the final.

Match schedule

8th June: Austria - Croatia (6pm)
 
12th June: Austria - Poland (8.45pm)
 
16th June: Austria - Germany (8.45pm)
 
20th June: quarter-final between the Group B winner and Group A runner up (8.45pm)
 
22nd June: quarter-final between the Group D winner and Group C runner up (8.45pm)
 
26th June: semi-final (8.45pm)
 
29th June: final (8.45pm)

Fanzones
For those not lucky enough to have a ticket for the stadium, the city has put in place an immense 1.2 km-long fan zone, from the Town Hall square to Heldenplatz, via the Ringstrasse. 100,000 spectators will be able to follow the matches here, relayed to 9 giant screens. There will also be a boutique selling fan paraphernalia on Heldenplatz.
 
Two other broadcasting areas have been provided for on Kaiserwiese, a huge meadow next to the Ferris wheel in Prater Park, and at the Strandbar Herrmann, on the banks of the Danube Canal (“Swiss Beach”).

Practical information

Austrian National Tourist Office
Tel. Great Britain: 0845 101 18 18 (local rate)
Fax: 0845 101 1819
Tel. Ireland: 189 093 01 18 (local rate)
Fax: 189 093 01 19
Holiday@austria.info
 
 
Albertina
1st district, Albertinaplatz 1,
Tel: +43–1–534 83–0,
 
Where to eat
 
Wrenkh Kochsalon gast.raum
1st district, Bauernmarkt 10,
Tel: +43–1–533 15 26
 
Saint Charles Alimentary
6th district, Gumpendorferstraße 30,
Tel: +43–1–586 13 63
 
The Dining Room
Maygasse 31
Tel: 43-1-804-8586
 
Milo
Architekturzentrum Wien (in the MuseumsQuartier)
Museumsplatz 1,
Tel: +43–1–523 65 66
 
Things to do
 
Sand in the City
3rd district, Lothringerstrasse 22,
 
Badeschiff
1st district, Danube Canal between Schwedenbrücke and Urania,
 
Strandbar Herrmann
1st district, Danube Canal near the Urania,
 
Central Garden
2nd district, bank of the Danube Canal on the Leopoldstadt side, near the Robertstiege steps
 
Where to stay
 
Hollmann Beletage
Köllnerhofgasse 6
 
DO & CO Hotel Vienna
1010 Wien, Stephansplatz 12
Tel: +43 (0)1 24 188
Fax: +43 (0)1 24 188-444
E-mail: hotel@doco.com
 
Hotel Rathaus Wein & Design
Lange Gasse 13
 
Hotel Sacher Wien
Philharmonikerstrasse 4
 
Palais Coburg
Coburgbastei 4
 
Alstadt
Kirchengasse 41
 
Das Triest
Wiedner Hauptstrasse 12

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