Siena, the Tuscan gem

 

The second monument to explore as a matter of priority (if you have a little more time, the next day you can visit the Palazzo Pubblico*** and its famous frescoes by Simone Martini) is the cathedral, striped with black and white marble and built on the highest part of town. Its façade reveals the two periods of its construction: in the lower part, the three great doors by Giovanni Pisano (begun in the late 13th century) are of Romanesque style, while the upper part is Gothic.

The interior of the Duomo is fascinating and merits a good hour’s visit. The entire floor (around 3,000 m2) is covered with 56 panels of marble, representing scenes from the Old Testament and Greek mythology. Over 40 artists (including Beccafumi) worked on this colossal undertaking from 1369 to 1547.

 

To the right of the cathedral, in the remains of what should have been the nave, the Museo dell'Opera is worth a visit. It notably houses the famous Maestà by Duccio, the historic founder of the Sienese School. This altarpiece (1309-1311) achieves the perfect fusion of Byzantine art and Gothic lyricism. The work sparked such enthusiasm among contemporaries that its transportation from the artist’s house to the cathedral gave rise to public festivities.

By climbing a narrow spiral staircase you will reach the terrace of the museum, which offers an exceptional panorama of the whole town: you will see the Piazza del Campo in all its magnitude and, in the distance, beyond the roofs of Siena, the marvellous Tuscan countryside.

Siena is the town of Saint Catherine (1347-1380), one of Christianity’s greatest mystics and also a formidable ambassadress. Indeed she managed to convince Pope Gregory XI to leave Avignon and return to Rome. She then organised the peace treaty between Pope Urban VI and Florence (guilty of having declared war on the Vatican). She was canonised in the 15th century and proclaimed patron saint of Italy in 1939, by Pius XII. All of ochre brick, the church of San Domenico houses the relics and head of the saint, in a small chapel adorned with frescoes by Sienese artist Sodoma (1477-1549).

After enjoying a good cappuccino on the terrace facing the church, head down the pretty viaCamporegio, which offers a splendid view of the cathedral and leads to the most beautiful fountain in Siena, the Fonte Branda. Built in 1081 and extended in 1446, this strange fountain topped by gargoyles consists of three powerful Gothic arches giving access to a sort of grotto. The first basin contained drinking water, the second served as a drinking trough for animals, the third was a washhouse. Lovers like to come here at night to make a wish... under the stern gaze of Saint Catherine!

 

The time has come to stride up via di Città, which is the most chic street in Siena, midway between the Duomo and Piazza del Campo. At no. 89 you will discover a very beautiful 12th century Gothic palace, whose rounded shape harmoniously follows the curve of the street. Since 1932 this building has housed the Chigiana Music Academy, which each year attracts a few living legends of music, such as the pianist Maurizio Pollini, composer Mauricio Kagel, viola player Jurij Bashmet and opera singer Shirley Verret. In addition to the evening concerts, these musicians also give classes throughout the summer, to pupils from all over the world. On request, you can visit the palace, which houses a Stradivarius collection, Franz Liszt’s piano, paintings of the Sienese School, a Madonne by Donatello and many other marvels.

Since the 12th century, Siena has been divided into 17 contrade (roughly parishes). Each one has its own church, colours, costumes and animal mascot, from which it takes its name: she-wolf, eagle, owl, dolphin, goose, porcupine, giraffe, caterpillar, etc. In the Middle Ages, the contrade supplied militias, maintained the streets, took care of the sick and collected taxes.

The contrada Valdimontone (contrada of the ram) is located in the southeast end of the town, between the Porta Romana and Basilica dei Servi. To get there, cross the Piazza del Mercato (a pleasant place to have dinner on the terrace of a trattoria) behind the Palazzo Pubblico. You will then discover a small valley completely covered with gardens and vegetable gardens, a veritable corner of paradise located within the ramparts.

 

* Journal de voyage en Italie, part five.

** Rival of Florence from the early 13th century (like Sparta and Athens in ancient times), Siena was the last of the Tuscan towns to pass into the control of Florence, in 1555.

*** This very beautiful palace, built in Gothic style at the end of the 13th century, was the seat of the successive governments of Siena. Along with the Museo dell'Opera and Pinacoteca Nazionale, it houses masterpieces of Sienese painting which, from Duccio to Beccafumi via Simone Martini and the Lorenzetti brothers, is characterised by the importance of the religious theme and chromatic sensibility. Less conservative and more sensual, Florentine painting only really gained influence over its Sienese rival in the 15th century, with the invention of perspective.