Richmond-upon-Thames, the “green lungs” of LondonBy Georges RouzeauTired of the incessant buzz of the centre of London? Located further up the Thames and accessible by tube, Richmond offers a marvellous breather thanks to its immense royal park. This peaceful borough of Greater London, popular with artists and celebrities, is a good place for a day of relaxation. Twenty minutes by tube from the centre of London, Richmond is an adorable little leafy rural town set on the banks of the Thames.  © Georges Rouzeau From its rich aristocratic past it has retained some Tudor-style vestiges, beautiful patrician residences and charm in abundance. Which is why it has always played host to royalty, artists and eminent figures, from Henry III to Virginia Woolf and Bertrand Russell. Today, numerous stars from the worlds of film, stage and music – Mick Jagger and Pete Townshend for starters – have settled on Richmond Hill to enjoy a magnificent view of the Thames, painted time and again by Turner – the only view in the whole United Kingdom to be protected by an Act of Parliament! Richmond’s main attraction remains without any doubt its park, the oldest and largest royal park of the crown of England (1,000 hectares/2,470 acres). Add to that a few old pubs, interesting boutiques, footpaths and cycle tracks, and the possibility of hiring a boat, and you will realise that Richmond offers a wonderful bucolic daytrip far away from the bustle of London. Rock’n’roll RichmondOn leaving Richmond station (tube and train), turn left immediately into Kew Road. Before exploring Richmond Park, it’s worth taking a stroll around the town centre and along the Thames. Rock fans can head straight to the Edwardspub (ex-Crawdaddy Club), where the Rolling Stones gave a few concerts in 1963. In the 1970s there was an embryonic rock scene in Richmond: the Twickenham studio of Pete Townshend of TheWho attracted many fast-living musicians. The guitarist still lives at the top end of the town, in Richmond Hill.  Around Richmond Green © Georges Rouzeau Around Richmond GreenTurn right into Duke Street. You are now facing Richmond Green, considered to be the most beautiful urban green in England. It was used as a jousting ground by the Tudors then, from 1650, as a cricket ground. Originally built in 1770 (but entirely rebuilt in 1884 after a fire), The Cricketers pub bears witness to this sporting past. Go and explore the small pedestrian alleys behind, where you can have a coffee and buy chocolates or little designer trinkets.  Gatehouse © Georges Rouzeau On the other side of Duke Street, the Victorian façade of the RichmondTheatre might give you a feeling of déjà-vu: this is understandable, since it appeared in the film The Hours, in which Nicole Kidman played Virginia Woolf. The author of Mrs Dalloway was bored stiff in Richmond in the company of her husband, Leonard. It was in Hogarth House, built in 1748 in Paradise Road, that they founded the Hogarth Press. The urban complex surrounding the green exudes an exquisite British charm. This is particularly the case of a row of four houses fronted by finely wrought railings, known as Maids of Honour Row. Built in 1724 at the request of George II, they housed the maids of honour of the Princess of Wales. A little further on, a single period Gatehouse bears witness to the huge Tudor palace that stood there until 1649. Go through the porch to discover Old Palace Yard, a charming little square steeped in the scent of lilac and wisteria in blossom.  Gatehouse © Georges Rouzeau Of the old Tudor palace there remain three redbrick houses, The Wardrobe. At the far end, Trumpeters’ House, recognisable by its pedimented portico, is another residence built using remains of the palace. The main façade is on the garden side – you can see it from the banks of the Thames. Of course, all of these buildings are private and should be admired without disturbing the tranquillity of the place... Head down to the Thames via Old Palace Lane (at the far end on the right), another leafy, flower-filled street of irresistible charm. Sports car fans will also be able to admire the latest fashionable models at their leisure.  © Georges Rouzeau The old Richmond bridgeHere the banks of the Thames offer a bucolic setting totally unlike, for example, the ultramodern district of Canary Wharf, the most recent riverside development in the heart of London. Stretching out to the right is a vast expanse of green, Old Deer Park, which extends as far as the famous botanical gardens of Kew. The footpath (the former towpath) that runs between the Thames and Old Deer Park is recommended for all walkers and cyclists.  © Georges Rouzeau Turn left onto the quay which leads to the famous Richmond Bridge, the oldest bridge in London. Built in 1774 by James Paine, this bridge leads to Twickenham. Of course, it was considerably altered in the 20th century (in 1934 to be precise), when it was widened to allow cars to cross. A jocular old boatman pointed out to us that if you look carefully under the arches, you can clearly see two colours of brick, distinguishing two periods of construction. The quay, the old pubs with their waterside terraces, the happy ducks, the boat repair workshops and the boats with freshly varnished hulls drying in the sunshine: everything promises a lovely afternoon. You can also hire a boat near the H2O barge restaurant. A few addresses The Cricketers The Green Richmond Surrey, TW9 1LX Facing the famous Richmond Green, this pub is an historic place which also boasts a well sheltered terrace. Dysart 135 Petersham Rd Richmond Surrey, TW10 7AA Before or after a walk in Richmond Park, this pub is in an ideal location, set slightly back from Petersham Road, and has a large welcoming terrace. H2O Richmond Bridge Richmond Surrey, TW9 1TM Restaurant set on a boat moored at the foot of Richmond Bridge. The roof serves as a terrace. Pizzas, pasta and other continental dishes.  Bingham Hotel61 - 63 Petersham Road Richmond Surrey TW10 6UT Go on, indulge yourselves for a weekend, just the loving two of you! Admittedly, this hotel is rather discreet on the street side: nothing distinguishes it from the other brick houses next door. But don't be fooled: inside it's an elegant Georgian townhouse, dating to 1740, with magnificent function rooms overlooking the Thames. In particular, there's a very beautiful bar with an impressively high ceiling. As for the furniture, is is classically contemporary and chic, mostly in mahogany. If available, choose a room overlooking the garden, as the street can be quite noisy. Doubles from 180 to 250 £.  The White SwanOld Palace Lane Richmond Surrey, TW9 1PG A charming little restaurant in a house dating to 1777 located in one of Richmond's most residential and quietest streets between the Green and the Thames. Frequented by locals rather than tourists. Small courtyard to the rear for lunch al fresco. Warm welcome and good pub food: soup of the day, pie, sausages... but also mezzes, vegetarian dishes and sandwiches, most dishes being under 10 £.  Church of St. Peter © Georges Rouzeau Up on the hillCarry on along Richmond quay Before setting off through the immense Petersham Meadow, take a sandy path which leads to the top of Richmond Hill. From up there, you will enjoy a superb view of the town, bridge and lazily winding river. The painters Turner and Joshua Reynolds immortalised it on several occasions; the latter even had a house built there (Wick House, 1772). Head back down towards the meadow. A metal gate gives access to a path (watch out for mud if it has been raining!) which crosses PetershamMeadow, where a few cows graze. The change of scenery is complete. Is this still Greater London? In the distance, the bell tower of the little red-brick church ofSt. Peter stands out. This has been a known place of worship since at least the 8th century, and is open to the public only on Sundays. The charm of its churchyard, where graves covered with roses and daffodils emerge from somewhat unkempt grass, is irresistible. The navigator and explorer George Vancouver is buried here. According to the caretaker, there are still a few burial plots for sale...  Richmond Park © Georges Rouzeau Richmond ParkCross the road and go 300 m left up the pavement on the other side. Here is one of the entrances to the largest royal park in Greater London. Its origins date back to the reign of Edward I (1272-1307), when it was known as the Manor of Sheen. It took its current name during the reign of Henry VII, and was subsequently fenced in by Charles I in 1637. Since that time, this old wild and hilly hunting ground has not changed one iota. Squirrels, rabbits, stags and deer roam free here, beneath age-old oaks, for the pleasure of young and old alike. The place is also renowned for its colony of stag beetles. Scattered with small ponds surrounded by rushes and reeds, this very typically English park is full of secret nooks and crannies where you can lose yourself. There are, nevertheless, a few more “civilised” parts such as the Isabella Plantation, a nursery with immense beds of rhododendrons and azaleas. As for Pembroke Lodge, it is an old cottage that has been converted into a restaurant. Bertrand Russell, the iconoclastic philosopher and mathematician, spent the first years of his life here. You can also go horse riding, cycling, fishing and even play golf here. From the terrace at Pembroke Lodge, the view takes in an incredible panorama, from Windsor Castle as far as the dome of Saint Paul’s Cathedral, and encompassing the port and wheeler-dealing complex of Canary Wharf, and Battersea power station… Practical informationRichmond’s official web site: www.visitrichmond.co.uk Tourist office: Richmond Information Centre, Old Town Hall, Richmond. Take footwear suitable for walking and the weather. Richmond Park: www.royalparks.gov.uk Bike rental in Richmond Park next to the Pavilion Café and the Golf Club. Open daily from 9 am. For further information and to book: Tel.: 07050 209249 Travelling by train/tube/bus: Richmond station District line, South West Train, SilverLink Train (British Rail), bus (33, 290, 490, H22, R68, R70 and 65). But be warned, there are more tubes to get there than to leave (reckon on 25 minutes’ waiting time). Travelling by boat www.totheriver.co.uk: this portal groups together a lot of useful information on the Thames. Departure is from Westminster. However, not all companies go as far as Richmond. In any event, phone before you set out, since the tides can disrupt traffic. Check out Thames River Boats first: www.wpsa.co.uk/ |
Tourism and Gastronomy
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