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 On the occasion of the publication of the Michelin Guide 2006, we decided to find out more about France's new star-rated chefs. The first one we met is Japanese chef Tateru Yoshino, from the Stella Maris restaurant near the Arc de Triomphe. His 100% French cuisine is extremely polished and crafted in a very personal style.
| Tourism and Gastronomy PORTRAITS OF CHEFSGaya Rive Gauche, Pierre Gagnaire's latest restaurant By E. Tresmontant After Tateru Yoshino two weeks ago, we paid a visit to Pierre Gagnaire's new star-rated restaurant, located in one of the capital's top districts, until now not renowned for its gourmet addresses...  "Croque-monsieur noir à l'infusion de crevettes grises" Until it was taken over by Pierre Gagnaire in September 2005, Gaya Rive Gauche was better known for its uppercrust 6th arrondissement clientele than for its cuisine: French actress Arielle Dombasle and her husband, writer and philosopher Bernard-Henri Levy (known as "BHL" in France) had their table there, as did the big shots from publishing house Gallimard and Science Po (the Institute of Political Science). Although the menu and decor have been completely revised, this restaurant still remains the symbol and expression of the chic "intellectual" district that surrounds it, between Saint-Germain-des-Près and the Hôtel Lutetia. So one doesn't just go "chez" Pierre Gagnaire, one also plunges into a typically Parisian atmosphere, interesting for its customs and Balzac-style crowd... "I'm really delighted with this first star," explains Pierre Gagnaire, "because it rewards a concept that is close to my heart: opening an affordable restaurant where you can come and eat simply, without the pomp of gourmet restaurants." Indeed, it is possible to sit down at the bar (on curious "compressed air" stools) and choose dishes depending on your appetite or the amount of time that you have: starter, main course, dessert, if you want to treat yourself, or just one dish if you're in a hurry, such as the amazing "croque-monsieur noir à l'infusion de crevettes grises" (toasted ham and cheese sandwich with infusion of shrimp). (¤13).
 The menu - identical in every way to that of Pierre Gagnaire à Tokyo (opened in November 2005) - focuses exclusively on seafood, with the exception of the already famous "Surf & Turf", a combination of large saté prawns and piece of lamb with preserved lemon (¤29). The Brittany oysters, selected for their strong flavour and iodine-rich nature, are served with delicious homemade rye bread (¤3 each). The terrine of crab with turnips and cauliflower mayonnaise (photo opposite) is a must (¤26), and nobly continues the "authentic brasserie" tradition, which Pierre Gagnaire feels is desperately lacking in Paris today. No farmed fish, of course, but a succulent wild sea bass, red mullet, sole, pan-fried langoustines with parsley and hard wheat semolina flavoured with cinnamon... "I have excluded from the menu expensive products such as turbot, John Dory and lobster".
 Contrary to the assertions of certain restaurant critics, Gaya Rive Gauche is not reserved for "scholars" or "experienced gourmets"; the cuisine here is, on the contrary, totally transparent and affordable. For Pierre Gagnaire, this restaurant is first and foremost a team, which he has put together like a football selector, with captain, officers and lieutenants! And his recruits are amazingly young: the chef, Guillaume, is only 27, the restaurant manager, Alexandre, 26, and the sommelier, Adrien, 21... "They all trained in the kitchens of my restaurant in rue Balzac. So I have confidence in them, but I don't hesitate sometimes to make them start a dish over again, several times in a row... You have to know how to refocus and motivate your players!" A team that is still getting into its stride, therefore, which should certainly go from strength to strength in the coming months! ¤70 per meal, including wine. * In catering jargon, the "coefficient" is the number by which the purchase price of a bottle of wine is multiplied. Many restaurants today continue to make their turnover on wine by using very high coefficients (from 4 to 10), which is why one is often reduced to drinking water. NB: 1 euro is worth approximately GBP0.69. Gaya Rive Gauche par Pierre Gagnaire 44, rue du Bac 75007 Paris Tel: 01 45 44 73 73 Photographies: © E. Tresmontant/ViaMichelin In the next edition: portrait of Benoît Bernard  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Refined decor and "club" ambiance