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| Tourism and Gastronomy PORTRAITS OF CHEFSTateru Yoshino: the Samouraï of French cuisine By E. Tresmontant On the occasion of the publication of the Michelin Guide 2006, we decided to find out more about France's new star-rated chefs. The first one we met is Japanese chef Tateru Yoshino, from the Stella Maris restaurant near the Arc de Triomphe. His 100% French cuisine is extremely polished and crafted in a very personal style.  Calm and smiling, Tateru Yoshino takes success in his stride. When he learnt that he had finally been awarded the long awaited star this year, the man, with great self-control, let nothing show. One week later, he sent 25 copies of the Michelin Guide to Japan, where the news of his recognition made front-page news. Make no mistake about it, at 52 years old, Tateru Yoshino is no "trendy" disciple of "fusion" cuisine. His credo is not the blending of cultures and flavours. At the age of 18, he went into French cuisine like others enlist in the Foreign Legion. So at his restaurant you won't find any Kobé beef, sushi, green tea, or yuzu (the famous mandarin flavoured Japanese lemon) but instead. lièvre à la royale (braised hare), tête de veau en cocotte (calf's head) and soufflé au Grand Marnier! Having trained with Joël Robuchon, Troisgros and Taillevent, this peasant's son, born on the peninsula of Kagoshima in the far south of Japan, sets out to be first and foremost an interpreter of great French cuisine, which he left his homeland in 1979 to study. His style is personal, like that of a Glenn Gould revamping the scores of J.S. Bach. Tateru Yoshino breathes new life into the classics of Escoffier - and this cuisine, precise but not pretentious, is modern through and through!
 From the starter, one is impressed by the delicacy of the red tuna and aubergine millefeuille, served with tapenade and Romanesco cabbage with balsamic vinegar. The work of a goldsmith, pure finesse! The fondant de foie gras de canard (duck foie gras) with carrot, truffle and pistachio marbling, reduction of Banyuls and fig purée, is a creation as pleasing to the eye as to the taste buds. The maître d'hôtel will propose to top it off with a glass of Alain Brumont's delicious Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh, the product of a late grape harvest, with aromas of flowers and dried fruit. Still as a starter, the terrine of kale with foie gras also surprises with its thin slices of black truffle slipped into the tender folds of the vegetable. As for the main courses, the émincé de lotte (monkfish) with bacon and "Greek-style" vegetables (olive oil, lemon juice, white wine) is a model of lightness, spiced up by tiny bits of orange zest.  More powerful in its aroma but also light thanks to its very fine crust, the pigeon pie is inspired by that of Jean and Pierre Troigros (Tateru Yoshino trained at their restaurant, alongside Pierre Gagnaire). It is above all a reminder of the Japanese chef's love of game, to which he devotes a very rich menu for six months of the year, as witnessed by his Rossini-style noisette of venison, his famous lièvre à la royale(highly praised by the specialists!) and his wild duck served in two courses. A detail often neglected, even in the "grand restaurants", the bread is homemade and boasts an attractive golden crust and slightly nutty flavour. For dessert, Tateru Yoshino's taste for contrast manifests itself, with his chocolate mousse with fine sea salt or brochette of rum baba, Madagascar vanilla cream and exotic fruit.
In accordance with a Japanese tradition to which he has always remained true, Tateru Yoshino follows the rhythm of the seasons and only uses organically farmed vegetables. His menus change four times a year and give pride of place to fresh sea produce, such as sea urchins from the Île d'Oléron, scallops from Erquis and Brittany lobsters. His game birds and animals are also admired by the specialists. Lunch menu at 43 euros. Sampler menus at 85 or 130 euros. * 1 euro is worth approximately GBP0.69. Stella Maris 4, rue Arsène Houssaye 75008 Paris Tel: 01 42 89 16 22 In the next edition: portrait of Pierre Gagnaire  | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
