Magazine - 01/05/05

See the plan

Around 1000AD, Duke Gérard d'Alsace, the founder of the duchy of Lorraine, decided to set up a small fortified town named Nanciacum. Between the 12th and 15th centuries, Nancy became the capital of the duchy and was further fortified. The succession of Dukes of Lorraine continued to beautify the town, the area which is now known as the Old Town (Ville-Vieille). It was during this period that the Ducal Palace, Porte de la Craffe (city gate) and St-Epvre basilica were built.

The New Town (Ville-Neuve) was subsequently founded by Charles III in the late 16th century in a style that was completely different from the Old Town, notably with streets intersecting at right angles. The Primatiale (now the cathedral) was built, as was the Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours church. The religious wars caused Nancy to strengthen its fortifications and the New Town thus gained a fortified complex that was separate from the Old Town.

In 1736, the duchy of Lorraine came under the control of the king of France, Louis XV, who appointed his father-in-law, Stanislaw (Stanislas) Leszczynski to oversee the area. An art lover and science enthusiast, the Polish monarch endowed the town with its finest squares: Place Royale (now Place Stanislas), Place de la Carrière and Place d'Alliance. Upon his death in 1766, Lorraine became French.

In 1983, deservedly so, the Royal City (Ville Royale: Place Stanislas, Place de la Carrière and Place d'Alliance) was placed on UNESCO's World Heritage List.

Nancy can easily be explored on foot so we advise you leave your car in one of the car parks bordering Place Stanislas.
Before you set off on your walk, drop by the Tourist Office. Located on the ground floor of the town hall, it provides advice and brochures in a variety of languages (English, French, German, Dutch, Spanish and Norwegian).

Built between the Old Town in the north and the New Town in the south, Place Stanislas is the true heart of the city. In 1752, Stanislaw Leszczynski decided to create a royal square in honour of his son-in-law, Louis XV. After three years under the direction of architect Emmanuel Héré, the square was inaugurated in 1755 with a bronze statue of Louis XV at its centre (this statue disappeared during the Revolution and was replaced in 1831 by one of Stanislaw). The square is famed throughout the world for its wrought-iron railings decorated with gold leaf designed by Jean Lamoura real gem! Surrounding the square are the town hall, Grand Hotel, Nancy Opera House and Museum of Fine Arts.

Built in the middle of the ramparts that separated the New Town from the Old Town, the triumphal arch occupies the northern part of Place Stanislas. It is also a tribute to Louis XV, depicting him as both "Peace-loving Prince" (left-hand side) and "Victorious Prince" (right-hand side).

Created in the 16th century, Place de la Carrière was originally a place where equestrian games were held. In the 18th century, Stanislaw commissioned his architect, Emmanuel Héré, to build the Palais de l'Intendance (now the Palais du Gouvernement), bordered by a colonnaded hemicycle. The noble square is surrounded by beautiful mansions from the 18th century.

Stroll through Place Vaudémont and admire the statue of Jacques Callot (1593-1635), a famous engraver from Nancy. Then take the Grande Rue, which was the main street in the Middle Ages, to the Ducal Palace. If it's lunchtime, take a break at rue des Maréchaux; nicknamed "rue Gourmande", this street is very popular when the weather is fine due to its numerous café and restaurant terraces.

The former residence of the Dukes of Lorraine in the 16th century, the Ducal Palace now houses the Lorraine Museum. Admire the 16th century porterie (former concierge's lodge), which elegantly combines Gothic and Italian Renaissance styles. Take the time to explore this exceptional museum, which will give you an insight into the rich history of Lorraine.

Once connected to the Ducal Palace by a covered passage, the Église des Cordeliers is nicknamed the "Saint-Denis" of the Dukes of Lorraine. The church has some very beautiful tombs: Jacques Callot is interred there with his father, as is René II and his second wife, Philippa de Gueldre. Adjacent to the church, the Couvent des Cordeliers (monastery) houses the Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions.

Before heading towards the Museum of Fine Arts on Place Stanislas, walk through the Pépinière; this old royal nursery garden founded by Stanislaw in 1765 is much appreciated by locals as a place to relax. The pleasant 22 ha (54 acre) park is planted with weeping willows, copper beeches, giant sequoias, tulip trees and magnolias.

Created in 1793, the Museum of Fine Arts was magnificently extended and renovated in 1999. The various periods of European art from the 14th to the 21st centuries are represented here - you can admire works by Tintoretto, Caravaggio, Rubens, Delacroix, Modigliani, Picasso, Rodin, Maillol, Zadkine and Cézanne. Local artists such as Émile Friant, Francis Gruber, Le Lorrain and Jacques Callot are also well represented. However, one of the best parts is in the basement... Extension work carried out in the late 1990s brought to light the remains of fortifications from the 15th to 17th centuries. On display in this wonderful setting is the Daum glassware collection: over 300 unique pieces tracing the 100 years of production of the famous Nancy factory. A definite must-see!

In the late 19th century, Nancy became one of the European capitals of Art Nouveau, influenced by the School of Nancy.

The first part of this tour is in the centre of Nancy and can be done on foot. Allow around 2 hours.

In 1904, straw-hat maker Henri Camal asked Émile André to build him a house (5 rue saint-Julien). This was to be the architect's only building for commercial use and was built using a metallic structure that allowed for a wide "basket-handle" opening on the ground floor. At number 7 in the same street, the Casino des Familles was built by Louis Lanternier in 1902.
Don't spend all your time admiring the Classical façade of the Crédit Lyonnais (7 bis rue St-Georges) - the surprise is inside! In 1901, Jacques Gruber created the School of Nancy's biggest glass roof - all of 250 m² (2,690 sq ft) for the bank. The glass roof escaped destruction in 1976 thanks to the intervention of the French Historic Monuments Department.
In 1903 Henri Aimé, a doctor, musician, poet and politician, commissioned a building by Georges Biet and Eugène Vallin in the heart of Nancy's shopping area (42-44 rue St-Dizier). The architects used a metallic structure covered with carved stone to create a building that was both sober and elegant. The building now houses the Société Générale bank.

Located at 52 rue St-Jean is an unusual building that once housed Jules Génin's seed shop (1900-1901). The building's metallic structure is representative of the rationalist trend in fashion at the time. A little further up the same street, stop in front of the Charles Renauld bank (58 rue Saint-Jean). The building's concrete structure is covered with dressed stone and a metallic frame. Inside, the lobby still has some of its original furniture as well as ironwork by Majorelle.

After leaving the bank, turn immediately right. At the end of rue Chanzy you will come face to face with the Chamber of Commerce and Industry (40 rue Henri-Poincaré). This neo-Classical building was transformed by the School of Nancy in 1908. Jacques Gruber added remarkable stained-glass to the ground-floor windows and Louis Majorelle adorned the interior with magnificent ironwork.

A stone's throw away, stop for coffee at the Brasserie Excelsior (50 rue Henri-Poincaré). Lucien Weissenburger, Louis Majorelle, Antonin Daum and Jacques Gruber all had a hand in the decor of this amazing Art Nouveau brasserie.

We recommend taking a car or taxi for the second part of the tour (taxi drivers in Nancy are schooled in Art Nouveau and can easily guide you from one villa to the next). Allow half a day.

In 1903, Nancy printer Albert Bergeret commissioned his friends from the School of Nancy to build a house (24 rue Lionnois). Architect Lucien Weissenburger set to the task, along with Louis Majorelle (ironwork), Eugène Vallin (woodwork), Jacques Gruber (stained-glass windows) and Victor Prouvé (decoration). The printer spent the equivalent of almost 1.5 million euros in today's prices on what were some of the major works of the School of Nancy.
 
Eager to build an Art Nouveau district on the outskirts of Nancy, property developer Jules Villard launched the Parc de Saurupt project in the early 20th century. Sadly the project did not achieve the anticipated success but the few villas that were built are nevertheless worth the trip, for example the Villa des Glycines (5 rue des Brice) with its remarkable openings, the Villa des Roches (6 rue des Brice) made of millstone grit and built by Émile André for himself, the Villa Marguerite (3 rue du colonel Renard) and Villa Lang (1 bd Georges-Clémenceau).
 
On your way to Villa Majorelle, we recommend taking a little detour via rue Félix-Faure where you can admire the 17 houses built by architect César Pain (1872-1946).
 
In 1898, Louis Majorelle commissioned his Parisian architect friend Henri Sauvage to build him a house (1 rue Louis Majorelle). Villa Majorelle was Nancy's first resolutely Art Nouveau house. Several artists worked on this project: Louis Majorelle himself for the ironwork and wood panelling, the ceramicist Alexandre Bigot, and the painter and glassmaker Jacques Gruber (tours are available - book with the School of Nancy Museum).
 
Our Art Nouveau excursion ends at the School of Nancy Museum, which is in the house once owned by Eugène Corbin. Most of the artists from the famous school (Majorelle, Prouvé, Vallin, Gruber and Daum) are represented here through their furniture and ceramic, leather and glass creations. In the garden, the amazing aquarium designed by Weissenburger seems to have been inspired by 18th century follies.