Magazine - 15/11/04

Christmas markets originated in northern Europe and are especially popular in Germany and central Europe. They have gradually replaced the year's last big fair, Saint Martin's day, generally held on 11 November when pigs were killed and the year's new wine and Christmas beer specially brewed for the occasion were drunk. In Sweden, Germany and Austria, they mark the beginning of Advent at the end of November. During this period, to announce the coming of Christ and compensate for the disappearance of the sun, candles of different colours are lit—red in Germany, white in Sweden or purple in Austria. Christmas markets have of course now spread nearly everywhere in France, Italy (mainly in the high Adige in Bolzano, Merano, Bressanone, Brunico, and Vipiteno) and in Spain (Barcelona) where they are above all associated with the art of crib-making.

From 13 November to 23 December, Vienna's town hall park (Rathauspark, 1^st district), is the setting of the famous 'Christ child market' (Christkindlmarkt) created in 1278 by King Rudolph Ist of Hapsburg (1218-1291). With its 140 wooden huts and gigantic firs decorated with coloured lights and toffees, it's the country's biggest Christmas market. Marvellously decorated and with a wealth of events, this market is generally snow covered and has a reputation for its cinnamon-flavoured mulled wine (glühwein), macaroons with nutmeg (muskatnockerln), vanilla-flavoured croissants (vanillekipferl) and rum and walnut balls (rumkugeln). You'll also learn to decorate a Christmas tree the Austrian way, the tree necessarily having to come from the Tyrol! With red ribbons tied at the end of its branches, the tree must be covered with a multitude of decorative objects such as wax figurines, plain or gilded cones, gingerbreads, tinsel garlands decorated with red berries and dried fruits, candles and also bottles of schnapps (for adults, of course!)... What about Father Christmas? Good question: this character who originated in Lapland never managed to become popular in Austria! He is replaced here by Saint Nicholas, the very popular bishop of Myre (4^th century), protector of children, and his evil double, Krampus, a sort of bogeyman. Taking place on 5 December, Saint-Nicholas' eve is a very important festival in Austria.

Everyone has heard of Strasbourg's famous Christmas market, Christkindelsmärik, created in 1570 and therefore France's oldest. On the occasion of its entry into the European Union, Poland is Strasbourg's guest of honour this winter, which will allow you to discover its typical craft products such as jewellery, leather artefacts and sculptures from the salt mines. Admire also Europe's highest Christmas tree, in front of the cathedral.

Far more intimate, Alsace's smallest Christmas market is a curiosity to be discovered at Struth, in Bas-Rhin, from 21 November to 2 January. This village of 220 inhabitants also features a synagogue dating back to 1836 and listed as an historic monument.

But the most different and authentically Alsatian Christmas market is undoubtedly that of Colmar! From 26 November to 31 December, the old town will be decorated and illuminated like an engraving by Hansi, the local celebrity, to whom an exhibition is devoted at the Musée d'Unterlinden. Four candles attached to branches of holly and fir, omnipresent in the streets, protect against evil spells and symbolise the four weeks of Advent before Christmas. At nightfall, don't fail to go on the guided visit of the town's oldest half-timbered houses with their snow-laden roofs.
In the daytime, even the most serious of us will feel exhilarated by the Medieval ambience which inspired some of Tomi Ungerer's finest drawings: troubadours and fiddlers playing flute, wooden toys, glassware, Advent wreaths, folk choirs and concerts, living cribs, open-air skating rink... You'll also find the magnificent sweet-smelling Christmas trees from the Vosges forest. Alsace, and more specifically the town of Sélestat, popularised Christmas trees in France as early as the 16^th century. Take a stroll along the canals and try aniseed-flavoured bredle swilled down with a glass of cinnamon- and orange-flavoured mulled wine.

With children in mind, the town of Colmar has erected a gigantic letter box on Place des Six Montagnes Noires, where they can post for free their letter to Father Christmas.

Honour to whom honour is due: Christmas market fans should go one day to Finland where Father Christmas was born! Joulupukki (his nickname in Finnish) lives according to tradition in the Korvatunturi mountain, in the depths of Finnish Lapland.
In 1950, near the town of Rovaniemi 830 km / 519 miles to the north of Helskinki, was built a log cabin to house Mrs Eleanor Roosevelt who was then visiting the Polar Circle. This cabin gradually became the centre of a village known as 'Father Christmas's village', which was officially inaugurated in 1985. Apart from 'Father Christmas's post office' (which receives each year some 600,000 letters from 150 countries and sends, on request, a personalised letter from Father Christmas to your children), you'll discover here (at minus 20°C / - 4°F!) the most beautiful Lappish craftware: dolls, slippers, hats, gloves, cups, glassware, superb knives with birch or moose-horn handles, imps, etc. Close to the village, Santa Park is a huge cave excavated from the ice of a mountain. Within, a horde of mischievous imps will be only too pleased to take your children to Father Christmas.

Geographically more accessible, Helsinki's Christmas market is held from 7 to 19 December along the city's best known avenue, Esplanadi. This market, which is matched in Finland only by that at Turku (the former capital), cheerfully illustrates the great importance of Christmas in Finland. After the long, dark and wet autumn, Christmas marks the turning point of the year and the return of light. From the first Sunday of Advent, the austere Lutheran churches resonate with the Hosanna song and lights shine brightly in the streets. 13 December is Saint-Lucy's day, which coincides with the shortest day of the year. Meanwhile the Christmas market has a marvellously festive atmosphere. People come here to buy the dishes composing the traditional Christmas meal: oven-roasted ham, gratinated swede, salted raw salmon, marinated herrings, star-shaped Christmas tartlets. Mulled wine is fortified here with a dash of vodka! Above all, you'll see typical Finnish artefacts: sledges, furs, knives, skis, ice-skates, earthenware wood stoves, Lapland firs, etc.