Newsletter
Subscribe
  

Archives
Consult

Other destinations
Glasgow
Bristol
The Year of Gardening
Liverpool

Hotels
Bayeux

Restaurants
Bayeux

Points of interest
Bayeux

Preparing your trip
Route to this destination
Location on the map

Send by e-mail

Print

 

DESTINATION
 

Bayeux: from the conquest of England to the Battle of Normandy

01/05/04
By E. Tresmontant

Located to the north-west of Caen 6 miles from the sea, Bayeux was the first French town to be liberated in the evening of 7 June, 1944. Thanks to its parish priest who slipped out at night on his bike to warn the Allies, it was also, unlike Caen, spared from being bombed and its incomparable heritage has therefore survived the Battle of Normandy...a must-see!




© E. Tresmontant / ViaMichelin


To get to Bayeux from the landing beaches, the route winds its way through magical countryside landscapes dotted with chateaux, manors, water mills and apple orchards. Château de Creully is worth a detour: this 11th century medieval fortress housed the BBC in 1944 when it gave hourly reports of the progress in the fighting. Also worth discovering is Château de Balleroy built in 1631 by the great architect François Mansart and bought by the American billionaire Malcolm Forbes in 1970. An amazing hot air balloon museum has just been opened here.




You will find Bayeux nestling in the heart of the Normandy farmland in all its splendour! The river Aure crosses the town and still powers the bishop's water mill from the 12th century. Its half-timbered houses (rue Saint-Martin and rue des Cuisiniers) are among the oldest in Normandy. Take a closer look at their timbers and you'll spot sirens and even a sculpture of Adam and Eve (rue du Bienvenu). The so-called Adam and Eve's house is home to a unique workshop: 5 professional lacemakers, bobbin lace virtuosos, embroider extraordinary dresses all day long. Fans include Dior, Lacroix and Hermès who use their knowledge dating back to the 17th century.




© E. Tresmontant / ViaMichelin
Hard to miss is the massive Gothic cathedral

Hard to miss is the massive Gothic cathedral which commands attention in the town centre. The British come here to see its portal which tells the story of Saint Thomas Becket, the Archbishop of Canterbury who was assassinated in his cathedral in 1170 on the order of Henry the Second (Plantagenet). The magnificent 13th century stained glass windows unfortunately fell victim in the 18th century to a worldly-minded bishop who thought the Middle Ages were synonymous with obscurantism: an organ hides them completely!




But Bayeux also owes its international reputation to the famous Queen Mathilda's tapestry exhibited at the William the Conqueror Centre. As the only work of its kind in the world, historians say it is the most precise and vivacious 'document' bequeathed to us by the Middle Ages on 11th century clothing, ships, arms, fighting, cooking and, generally speaking, local customs.




© Autorisation spéciale de la ville de Bayeux
Detail of the Queen Mathilda's tapestry, 11th century.

This tapestry is an embroidery of coloured wools on a white linen canvas executed by a workshop of Saxon embroiderers and commissioned to decorate the cathedral by the Bishop of Bayeux, William the Conqueror's* half brother. Measuring 227 feet long and 20 inches high, it tells the story of the conquest of England on 14 October 1066 by William. Scenes follow scenes with a wealth of delightful details, each topped by explanatory Latin inscriptions in Saxon style. The borders feature a multitude of fantastic animals, and hunting, country or saucy scenes. Once again, this Middle Ages raciness displeased people and during the French Revolution, the tapestry would have been transformed into cart cloth had a rich patron from the region not bought it at the last minute. Yet we have proof that artists in the Middle Ages were exceptional because during restoration work, no one was able to find the same quality of the dyes used in the 11th century: now, the modern colours have faded whereas those of the time are ageless! If the museum hall is not invaded by school children, take your time to admire this immense chronicle of the Middle Ages.




© E. Tresmontant / ViaMichelin
Visit the orchards in a jeep!

Bayeux is one of Normandy's treasures during the spring! The sky and its light evoke Corot and the impressionists, and it exudes earthy fragrances and the aroma of lovingly prepared cuisine. Enjoy the regional specialities such as butter and caramels from Isigny, scallops from the coast, oysters from Asnelles, Bayeux pork and Livarot cheese, delicious with a good cider... In fact, the Viard cider plant in Bayeux is an excellent place to find out more about cider: here, you can learn about the various production stages of cider, taste the drink and visit the orchards in a jeep. This traditional cider plant will be providing the official cider for the 60th anniversary of the landing.




Remembrance of the war underlies the town naturally. At the entrance to the town, the British cemetery is laid out as a superb landscaped garden setting for the 4,144 Commonwealth soldier tombs. Facing opposite is the Battle of Normandy Memorial Museum. More than just a tribute to the 6 June 1944 landing, it is the only museum to present a complete overview of the 77 days of fighting in Normandy between 1,500,000 Allied soldiers and the 740,000 soldiers of the Third Reich. Weapons, uniforms and heavy equipment are grouped in four sections: artillery, armoured vehicles, aviation and military engineering.

* Duke of Normandy (1035-1087) and King of England (1066-1087).



 
Notre-Dame district
Adam and Eve's house
River Aure
Memorial Museum

Pratical information

Bayeux Tourist Office
Tel.: 02 31 51 28 28
www.bayeux-tourism.com

Bayeux Lace Conservatory (Conservatoire de la dentelle de Bayeux)
Maison d'Adam et Eve
6 rue du Bienvenu
France
Tel.: 02 31 92 73 80

William the Conqueror Centre (Centre Guillaume le Conquérant)
13 bis rue de Nesmond
France
Tel.: 02 31 51 25 50

Cidrerie Viard
Tel.: 02 31 92 09 15
www.cidrerieviard.com

Battle of Normandy Memorial Museum (Musée-mémorial de la bataille de Normandie)
Boulevard Fabien Ware
France
Tel.: 02 31 51 46 90
www.mairie-bayeux.fr

Also in the area
Château de Creully
Tel.: 02 31 80 67 08

Château de Balleroy and its hot air balloon museum
Tel.: 02 31 21 60 61
www.chateau-balleroy.com