Back in 1802, the rural peace was shattered by a scandal involving the daughter of a local landlord and a bogus MP; read all about it in Melvyn Bragg's novel The Maid of Buttermere. Today, the village is a fine base for walks in the area, much of which is owned and protected by the National Trust. How better to start than by following the path around the lake itself, which, to me, is one of the most beautiful in the Lake District?

It's an easy walk of a couple of hours, with nothing strenuous along the 7km route, despite high fells reaching almost to the water's edge in places. Pack a picnic and stop along the way, or complete the circle and take refreshments in Buttermere, at one of the two inns.

In fact, the path starts from the Fish Inn. It crosses the fields on the plain separating Buttermere from Crummock Water, then the Buttermere Dubs, the stream that links the two, before reaching the lake at the foot of Sourmilk Gill, which tumbles in feathery streaks down the fells from its source. Once over the footbridge, you have a choice: the footpath beside the lake, or a bridleway through Burtness Wood. The latter has restricted views, so youll miss the wide variety of wildfowl on the water. (Take binoculars for a closer look and a bird guide for identification.)

Out of the woods, the path crosses Comb Beck. Beyond the southern end of the lake, turn left and cross the level fields below Raven Crags for Gatesgarth Farm. Turn left here on the road descending from the Honister Pass and, after a short distance, join another path along the lakeshore. Along this stretch are superb views of High Crag and Haystacks rising above the opposite shore, while the bank of pines reflected in the water beneath Fleetwith Pike must be one of the most photographed scenes in Lakeland. Further on, the path skirts beneath a large house, Hassness, before leading into a 60m-long tunnel through a wall of rock. Beyond, the landscape is almost park-like, with mature trees framing the scene; then you cross farmland and return to the village via the yard at Wilkinsyke Farm.

If that light starter has tempted you, there are plenty of Lakeland main courses on the Buttermere menu. For these, however, you must be properly equipped with suitable clothing and footwear, plus navigational kit (map and compass or gps). One route, starting just beyond Gatesgarth Farm on the Honister Road, skirts the foot of the fells before climbing more dramatically towards Fleetwith Pike and on to Brandreth. From there, the path follows the ridge up to Green Gable, then zigzags down to Windy Gap before heading upwards again to the broad, boulder-strewn summit of Great Gable. The best views are from the Westmorland Cairn southwest to Wasdale and bleak-looking Wast Water.

Another route takes you from the foot of Sourmilk Gill, winding up to Bleaberry Tarn and on to the summit of Red Pike. From here, follow the ridge to High Stile and High Crag, with wonderful views north on a clear day along Crummock Water to the sea, some 35km away.

After High Crag, the route descends via a reconstructed path to Scarth Gap, then climbs again to Haystacks. This was the favourite summit of Alfred Wainwright, whose seven quirky hand-written guides, illustrated with his own line drawings, did more than anyone else (including Wordsworth) to promote the Lake District as a walking area. After his death in 1991, his ashes were scattered by Innominate Tarn on Haystacks. From both Great Gable and Haystacks you can descend south to Wasdale Head. From Great Gable, you go via the scree slopes; from High Crag or Haystacks, via the Black Sail Pass and one of the country's most remote youth hostels, tucked in by the eastern end of the vast Ennerdale Forest. Wasdale is worth the effort. Here is the Wasdale Head Inn, famous for its climbers' bar, one of the most atmospheric in the whole of the Lake District.