Begin at Middleham, Yorkshire's smallest town and the horse-racing centre of the north of England. You are more than likely to hear the clatter of horses' hooves on the cobblestones of its central Market Place square as you explore its traditional shops and buildings. From the square walk head for Middleham Castle, and turn left into the alley by the Castle Keep Tea Rooms in Canaan Lane.

© All Rights Reserved Middleham Castle is in the care of English Heritage.

Walking straight ahead, Middleham Castle is on your right. Its central keep, built in the twelfth century, is one of the largest in England. You can climb to the top via steps in the south-eastern corner for spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. The castle became a royal residence under Richard III. He came here to live at the age of nine in 1461, and trained in jousting and swordsmanship. His only son Edward was born and died here. During the War of the Roses, Henry IV was imprisoned at the castle.

Go through a gate and into a field, where the exquisite Middleham Jewel, dated to the late fifteenth century, was found in 1985. The gold and sapphire pendant is worth £2.5 million and is now in the Yorkshire Museum in York. A replica is now on display in Middleham Castle itself.

At the end of the field go through another gate, and with the wall now on your left continue down the hill to the River Cover. Climb over the stile to the left and walk along the riverbank. The path crosses a field and leads into woodland, with the burbling river on your right.

Soon you will see the large, flat Stepping Stones that cross a shallow point in the river. This route was used by the monks of Jervaulx Abbey to bring their cheeses to market in Middleham in the eleventh century. The original stones were lost until workmen restoring the ancient path found them buried in the riverbed a few years ago.

Step across the stones to the opposite bank, following the path through the gate and turning left along the embankment. You are now in open countryside, with the path clearly marked. Occasional signs guide you to Cover Bridge, a magical spot where the River Cover meets the River Ure. Cross over the road here, and enter another gate marked 'Public Footpath'.

The flat path continues through the tall grass along the embankment. Just beyond the next gate, on your right, is the marsh-fringed Fish Pond Plantation. Fishing on this stretch of the river is a private; you may see licensed anglers out trying their luck. Carry on through pasture, then turn right at the next gate, and walk along the wide track that leads to a main road. On your left is the restored Jervaulx Hall, now a hotel. Turn left for Jervaulx Abbey.

Before exploring the abbey, refreshments are in order. The tea room near the parking area, over the road from the ruins, serves delicious locally made ice cream, and there are wooden benches outside in the garden.

The extensive grey-stone ruins of Jervaulx Abbey are well maintained. The many atmospheric rooms, brightened by wildflowers in the summer, are a delight to explore. The Cistercian abbey was founded in 1156. The monks were the first to breed racehorses at Middleham. They also created its most famous product - Wensleydale cheese - known to Wallace and Gromit fans the world over. Jervaulx was destroyed in 1536, during Henry VIII's Dissolution of the Monasteries.

Retrace your route as far as Cover Bridge. Cross over and stop for a drink at the Coverbridge Inn, a delightful old pub with 16th-century wooden beams and a pleasant garden. When Jervaulx Abbey was dissolved in 1536, the monks gave their precious recipe for Wensleydale cheese to the inn's landlord, who sold it as Coverham cheese for the next forty years. When he passed the recipe on, it reverted to its original name.

Head left outside the pub through a narrow gap in the wall and back to the river. Turn right along the pasture, pass through a gate and follow the path along the riverbank. After crossing two more stiles you will find yourself back at the Stepping Stones, and from here continue back the way you came.