2008-08-25
By Étienne LabrunieIt’s an area of 8 km2 (3 mi2) overlooking Canada’s second biggest metropolis. It’s a town within the city at the foot of the famed Mount Royal. It’s an old working-class neighbourhood which was originally populated by Poles, Russians, Germans, Lithuanians, Frenchmen and Jews who fled Europe. It’s a quarter which used to be on the edge of town, and which saw the creation of a number of factories and small ateliers.
 © G. Dal BoToday, these same ateliers have become vast lofts and sanctuaries for artists on a quest for inspiration. Yes, nowadays the Plateau fancies itself a sort of Soho or Greenwich Village. ‘It’s also something like La Bastille in Paris,’ adds Johan, who’s been living here for a dozen years or so. Johan, an actor who waits tables in a trendy bar in between roles, wouldn’t dream of living anywhere else. La Bastille, maybe, but minus the outsized buildings. Instead, the Avenue du Mont Royal - the Plateau’s main boulevard - is lined with architecturally diverse houses of many forms and colours. There are artists’ lofts and English cottages, two- and three-storey row houses, and the red brick of an old factory thrown in here and there for good measure. Plus commerce everywhere you look: restaurants, bars, art galleries, trendy clothing boutiques, fine foods, dance classes, bookshops, internet bars... ‘Most of the businesses here are small scale - a big supermarket would be out of place. Anyway, if they tried to set one up, there would be quite an outcry,’ Johan explains. At the end of the day, this island of resistance is the place to be. ‘People flock here in the evening looking for diversion and fun,’ says Johan. The Plateau by Night attracts golden boys and girls, fashionable folk of all feathers, tourists and artists. There are plenty of bars, discos and lounges, and they’re all buzzing. The Rue St. Denis, for one, is especially renowned for its fine restaurants and its animated atmosphere.  © G. Dal BoPredictably, now that the quarter is more popular and sought-after than ever, overpopulation threatens. Nearly 105,000 people live on the Plateau - that’s basically 13,000 inhabitants per square kilometre. No decline in sight. Real estate prices have skyrocketed. ‘In ten years the prices have gone up five-fold,’ says Johan. ‘And there are plenty of Frenchmen on the Plateau because they’re the only ones who can afford to live here,’ adds a fellow in his forties who’s been eavesdropping. It’s estimated that natives from France account for approximately 30% of the Plateau population. ‘There are certain indications - groceries which cater to French customers, a profusion of wine sellers - but you can’t really say that it’s the “French Quarter,”’ explains Benoit, a Frenchman who has been living in Montreal (’but not on the Plateau’) for the past six years. ‘The very idea of a “French quarter” is Utopian - it doesn’t exist because the French aren’t keen on living together. More than anything else, it’s a Montreal quarter,’ adds Serge, another expat from France.  © G. Dal BoVarious signs point to the fact that the Plateau has traditionally attracted immigrant communities - the St. Louis de France parish, for example. On the east side, the Greeks have set up shop. Old synagogues, some of which have been transformed into housing or schools, bear witness to four generations of Jewish presence. The colourful house facades - those of the Rue Drolet, for example - owe their existence to the sizeable Portuguese community which moved in beginning in the 1960s. And it would seem that the ornate balconies and outer staircases dating from the 1880s are of French inspiration. On the website www.bonjourplateau.com we learn that, ‘For (Canadian) Francophones, the stairway became a social setting reflecting their Latin mentality and conviviality, reminiscent of rural life.’ “Stoop-setting” created the strong neighbourly relationships that still characterise the quarter. Rue St. Hubert, Rue Berri and Rue St. Denis feature handsome examples of these dwellings built by wealthy and influential Frenchmen. Yes, the Plateau quarter is in vogue, and so naturally it’s the topic of many a conversation. Some find it too blatantly and deliberately trendy, while others appreciate its village ambience and multicultural, artistic flavour. At any rate, it’s certainly worth a detour. A few addresses...
MistoSet in a hip, well-designed decor, Misto offers a number of Italian specialities such as focaccia. The service is flawless, as is the quality of their products. The well-rounded and audacious wine list features wines from France, Italy, Spain, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. $10.25 to $14.50 for focaccia; $12.50 to $17.00 for pasta. 929, Avenue Mont-Royal Est Tel: (514) 526-5043 
L’Avenue du PlateauAlthough the American-style bar genre can now be found all over the planet, here, naturally, it feels more authentic. Harleys and their ilk hang from the walls and ceiling, and the pervasive background din is only just covered by the electronic music. The menu features copious breakfasts, hamburgers, salads and club sandwiches. 922, Avenue Mont-Royal Est Tel: (514) 523-8780 
Petits GâteauxThanks to Sex and the City, cupcakes are back in style, and this utterly hip bakery makes hundreds of kinds of colourful cupcakes in an amazing variety of flavours, including some very unexpected ones. A real treat - une pure gâterie - as Quebecers would say. $2.75 a cupcake. 783, Avenue Mont-Royal Est Tel: (514) 510-5488 
Chez Baptiste This pub offers a vast selection of locally brewed and imported beers and ales. Hippie-types and students abound. 1045, Avenue Mont-Royal Est Tel: (514) 522-1384 The Plateau is also known for its jewellery shops and art galleries. |
